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View Full Version : Stanley 78 - correct bevel angle??



John Keeton
03-26-2009, 7:51 PM
Bought a Craftsman copy of the 78 in decent shape for not much money, and getting ready to try to tune it up. What is the correct bevel angle? I have seen a lot of information in searching, but no definitive answer. Also, any suggestions on making this a serviceable plane would be appreciated. Thanks.

Stu Gillard
03-26-2009, 7:54 PM
Right or wrong, I use a 25 degree grind, with a 5 degree microbevel.
Seems to work very well :D

Joel Goodman
03-26-2009, 8:38 PM
Here's a link to another site's article on 78 tips:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=25657&highlight=Jake+Darvill+78


PS I hope this is allowed.

Mike Henderson
03-26-2009, 9:02 PM
It looks to me that the "frog" is about 45* so a 30* bevel angle would work fine. Or, as someone else suggested, a 25* primary with a secondary to 30 or a bit more.

About 7* of relief angle should be enough so backing off 45*, that would allow you to go as high as 38*.

Mike

John Keeton
03-26-2009, 9:15 PM
Thanks guys - Joel, I had seen that link, but all I got from a quick scan was an inquiry about a 25 - 35* bevel and no definitive answer. It did have some other good info, though, and I appreciate the help.

I will try the 25+5, and see how it goes. I can always go higher if needed. I read somewhere that this plane was intended for long grain work, but it seems that with a higher angle, one might get better results for cross grain.

This will be my first "oldie" to play with - although it is by no means that old, nor a classic. Probably better that I not play with anything of value anyway:o

Pedro Reyes
03-26-2009, 10:09 PM
I read somewhere that this plane was intended for long grain work, but it seems that with a higher angle, one might get better results for cross grain.



John:

From this I am getting the impression that you intend to have the iron bevel up? The iron is supposed to be bevel down.

I was surprised by the question since this is a bevel down plane so angle influences not the cutting angle but edge durability, ease of sharpening and arguably sharpness, but not cutting angle.

/p

Stu Gillard
03-26-2009, 10:15 PM
For cross-grain cutting, ensure that the nicker (does the craftsman have a nicker ?) is sharp and set correctly (see posted thread).
Also, I score a deep line with a marking knife before beginning. Another bit of insurance is chamfering the end of the intended rebate to avoid chipping out.
You can do this with a chisel, rabbet block, or a shoulder plane in a pinch.

Cheers,
Stu

Jim Koepke
03-27-2009, 12:52 AM
Here's a link to another site's article on 78 tips:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=25657&highlight=Jake+Darvill+78


PS I hope this is allowed.

As far as I know, links are allowed as long as it is not something you are trying to sell. There is a listing of link posting rules.

Jake used to post here a lot, but have not seen him of late. Likely busy with the warm weather down under.

jim

John Keeton
03-27-2009, 5:02 AM
I was surprised by the question since this is a bevel down plane so angle influences not the cutting angle but edge durability, ease of sharpening and arguably sharpness, but not cutting angle.You are precisely correct! In fact, the milled slots for depth adjustment would prevent the blade from being used otherwise.

See Pedro, this is where my ignorance of handtools shows:o I never intended to use it bevel up - but, still felt that there must be a "proper" bevel angle.

In thinking about it, I suppose it may not matter as to the angle, except as to the durability of the edge. Seems Mike's suggestion about a "relief" angle makes sense to me, so maybe a higher angle would be better all around.

Stu, I picked up on the nicker suggestions in the post, and will certainly do that.

My intended "principal" use of this plane (although I hope to find other uses) is to cut a rebate on the ends of my drawer sides before doing half-blind dovetails. As Mike knows, I had an LN skew rabbet plane, but I had difficulty managing that plane. I am hoping this one does better. If not, I will be on the search again!!

This Neander thing is fun, but more complicated than my tailed tools! I am enjoying the slide though:D Learning a lot and having fun - how much better can it get.

Wilbur Pan
03-27-2009, 5:47 AM
This Neander thing is fun, but more complicated than my tailed tools! I am enjoying the slide though:D Learning a lot and having fun - how much better can it get.

Fun's the key word here.

As for my two cents on the bevel angle for your plane, I'd start off at about 25°. If you find that the edge is not lasting as long as you would like, go up a few degrees.

That's not complicated, is it? ;) Seems simpler to me than, say, making sure that the blade on a table saw is perfectly parallel with the miter slot both a t 90° and at a 45° tilt. ;)

Rich Luczak
03-27-2009, 5:54 PM
Hi John,

I bought a 78 on the 'bay. I got a nice thick replacement blade from LN. I never even tried the one that came with it, however I'm sure the LN blade helped a lot.

John Keeton
03-27-2009, 7:17 PM
Good deal Rich! I got mine on the bay, as well. Ended up getting a pretty good price because it was a Craftsman copy. It was in great shape, just cleaned it up today, flattened everything, put a good edge on it at 25*. Wilbur had a good point. Try it and if I don't like the result it is easy enough to change on a thin blade. It works great.

I used it to put a reveal rebate on the bottom of some drawers in a project I am doing.

The only thing I would like to do is not have the knicker cutting so deep. I sharpened it, and it works fine. But, it cuts much deeper than the blade - although I have the blade set fairly shallow. Thinking about shortening one of the edges and see how that works.

Wilbur Pan
03-27-2009, 7:31 PM
Hi John,

I don't have a Stanley 78, but I do have a Japanese plane that does the same function, and it also has a nicker. When I first got it, I also had issues with the nicker cutting deeper than I wanted. Grinding down the nicker a little takes care of this quite easily. Just go slow.

Stu Gillard
03-27-2009, 7:37 PM
Hi John,

I don't have a Stanley 78, but I do have a Japanese plane that does the same function, and it also has a nicker. When I first got it, I also had issues with the nicker cutting deeper than I wanted. Grinding down the nicker a little takes care of this quite easily. Just go slow.

I agree, I forgot to mention that I also shortened the nicker by close to a half.

John Keeton
03-27-2009, 7:38 PM
Thanks Wilbur, for the report on working down the nicker. Since there are two edges on this one, I figure I can ease one of them a little and still be OK.

Why did I figure you probably didn't have a Western plane:rolleyes: By the way, that was some tempting posts about the swap meet some of you N. J. guys were talking about. Wouldn't mind coming to visit for that one!