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george wilson
03-28-2009, 12:03 PM
This is a batch of planes,similar to the picture some months ago of a batch of backsaws.For this picture,we laid 2 sheets of plywood on the 16' workbench. There are (were before the layoffs) about 80 craftsmen in town who used these tools,and there were 5 types of planes in a set.

Therefore,Jon,on your left,and I on the right ( though no one is as far right as Jon!),used every means to manufacture these expediently. However,our best efforts to manufacture was in cutting the escapements. The rest,except for sawing and planing the wood to basic size,was hand work.

We had a slotting attachment for the milling machine seen in the back of the room,to the left of Jon,with the motor on top. This device made reciprocating strokes whose length could be varied. It was really for cutting keyways in metal gears,etc.,but we adapted it for wood. We made powerful sharp wood cutting chisels out of D2 steel.

At first,we laid out the throats of the planes,and drilled away as much wood as possible with Forstner bits. Then,we turned the planes upside down,and with a special long router bit,we routed a groove where the mouth of the plane would be. Then,we clamped the planes at the angles required,and chiseled away the wood with long,powerful strokes of the slotter. This worked perfectly,because the slotter did leave chisel cuts,not router cuts which would not have looked acceptable.The router cuts at the mouths were eradicated by the chisel cuts. Thick saws we made sawed away where the wedges fit,and squared up the mouths of the planes.

The beveling of the plane bodies was done by hand. Handles were sawn out,but hand rasped to their rounded contours.

We got the blacksmith shop to make authentic laminated irons,which have not yet been delivered. They were very stingy with metal in the 18th.C.,it being hand refined,so the irons were not very thick,and did not have chipbreakers till late in the century. Therefore,these planes needed careful tuning to make them not chatter.

Robert Rozaieski
03-28-2009, 1:11 PM
That's incredible George! I've made a couple by hand myself and I know the work they involve.

As a side question, where did you get your beech from? I've been looking for some to make a high angle (York or middle pitch) smoother since these pitches aren't typically found in the wild. I've searched for some time but cannot find beech in suitable thickness in my neck of the woods. I know I could use other woods but I really want it to be traditional in every sense of the word so I'm really looking for beech.

Jim Kountz
03-28-2009, 1:55 PM
Wow!! Whole lotta planin goin on!!

george wilson
03-28-2009, 1:55 PM
Robert,the trouble with beech these days,is that it isn't available commercially. They used to use beech for a lot of things,even cheaper furniture.

We had to cut our own beech. I had gotten some from local small sawmills when I first became toolmaker.Of course,planes need to have the wood oriented the right way: outside edge of the tree on the bottom of the plane. We set up a WoodMiser sawmill out in some woods the museum owned in February,about 1986,and stayed out there for a week or 2,cutting 5000 bd. feet of 6"X6"'s,4"X4"'s,2" thick slabs for braces,etc. Then,we stored it all in the loft of a large garage in the Historic Area.I no longer work there.

We used what we had until the wood air dried.It's still in use today. I have no beech large enough to make planes myself right now. You could possibly get someone who cuts firewood to cut some short logs for you,then split them into wedges,and let them dry. The only small lumber yard around here anymore is Museum Resources Lumber-I hope that's the right name! It is operated by Kerry Shackleford,formerly head of Rural Trades in Williamsburg. He is in Providence Forge,Va. They custom cut colonial size timbers for Museums. I don't know if he has any beech 4x4 stock.

We actually did go out at first,and pick out beech from a friend's firewood pile!

Bill Rusnak
04-01-2009, 12:11 AM
What's the best way to learn how to identify wood in the wild? I can tell the difference between oak, poplar, maple, etc. when it's planned and sitting in a lumber yard, but when you're faced with rough wood in a firewood pile, what do you look for?

Bill

george wilson
04-01-2009, 12:16 AM
Best look up trees on line,or get a book. Beechwood has smooth,gray bark.It has little tiny brown flecks in the grain

Steve knight
04-02-2009, 12:19 AM
good job. I thought long and hard how I could hog out my plane insides. I debated on if it could be done with woods like purpleheart.
I knew the old timers figured out how to do the hogging so it was possible. glad you worked it out.

george wilson
04-02-2009, 1:32 AM
there were mortising "machines" in the 19th.C.,possibly earlier,that just used a plain mortising chisel,sliding in a track, with a long lever bearing down against them. Say,the lever was 3' long,the fulcrum was at one end. The chisel's top end contacted the lever 6" from the fulcrum. That gave you a lot of leverage. These machines sometimes had a wooden frame. They could have used a simple machine like that. The path of the captured chisel could be accurately relied upon.Roy Underhill used an antique mortiser on his show once.