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View Full Version : Setting Depth on LV Scraping Plane



Thomas Pender
04-06-2009, 8:14 AM
I recently bought a LV Scraping Plane and intend to use it on panels vs. cabinet scrapers having seen it done this way with some success by a few pros. (Am told it is much less effort.) However, when I watched the pros I never thought to ask how they set the depth - how much is enough, etc. I expected the Scraping Plane would be a fussy plane with all the adjustments possible on it and that sharpening would be part of of my learning curve, but, I am a little bit frustrated (and probably clumsy :o), so my questions are:

How much depth is enough? (Understanding that I have to expose the cutting edge.)

What is the best way to set the blade square and to the desired depth?

Can I build a jig to set it to the proper depth and squareness?

How can I best avoid getting a bit of a gouge on one side?

Other suggestions?

Thanks!

Danny Burns
04-06-2009, 9:31 AM
Did your scraping plane not have any instructions?

http://www.leevalley.com/html/05p2901ie.pdf

http://www.leevalley.com/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=48492

The blade is placed in the plane that is sitting on a flat surface until the blade just touches the surface. The thumb screw is then twisted to put a slight curve/bow in the blade. This will cause the scraper blade to project ever so slightly below the plane's bottom.

Veritas site:

http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=113


Review of LV scraper plane with tips:

http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1976

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=3924503

Hope this helps.
Cheers

Dave Anderson NH
04-06-2009, 12:43 PM
My simple beginners method of setting the depth of any scraper plane or for that matter anny other plane is dead simple. Take and cut two pieces of typing paper about 3" square. Lay the paper on a flat solid surface like a properly flattened bench top with the pieces about 1-3" apart. Lay the tool on top of the paper pieces with the mouth centered over the gap between the paper pieces. Loosen the blade and allow it to make square contact with the bench top. Now tighten the blade in place.

If you have most normal weight typing paper the blade projects .0035". Adjust up or down from here or find a thinner or thicker piece of paper depending on your needs.

Brian Kent
04-06-2009, 12:52 PM
If you have most normal weight typing paper the blade projects .0035". Adjust up or down from here or find a thinner or thicker piece of paper depending on your needs.


Dave, you must have finer paper than me. Mine is .004" rather than .0035". That's why my shavings have been so thick!;)

Bill Houghton
04-06-2009, 1:46 PM
Dave, you must have finer paper than me. Mine is .004" rather than .0035". That's why my shavings have been so thick!;)

Maybe he just cranks down on the micrometer a bit harder.

Starrett makes paper micrometers that have very large anvils, to avoid crushing the paper and more accurately measure it, for this reason.

george wilson
04-06-2009, 2:36 PM
Aluminum foil is usually .002" thick. I think just laying the scraper blade in the plane directly on the bench,tightening the blade up,and bending a curve into the blade as Danny suggested,should be o.k.. I have an old Stanley,and never thought about making any special jig or other means of setting the cut other that this.

Thomas Pender
04-06-2009, 3:06 PM
What all of you have provided is real help. The plane came with instructions on how to sharpen it etc., but, not how to use it. The advice I have received from all of you and and the sites provided by Danny (especially the review site) seem to be very useful. I will try both methods for setting the depth - the flat on the bench and with paper on each side and experiment.

This exchange is yet another concrete example of how important the Creek is to the sanity of woodworkers as we travel down the slippery slope of acquiring and learning to use fine hand planes.

I note one of the sites precisely explained why I want to use a scraper vs. sandpaper (e.g., with a ROS) - you get to keep more shine and figure on the wood and it finishes easier. There is also less dust and folks love to have plane shavings to start fires. I figure if we wanted, we could sell our shavings :). Regardless, I use hand planes because I get more appealing results and because using them can be good exercise;).

Again, thanks to all of you!