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View Full Version : Which Paint on HF HVLP setup



tom holton
08-21-2008, 10:00 AM
I have to paint my first real project for the wife. I built a crib out of clear pine and was planning on having a buddy paint it for us, but that idea fell thru for several reasons. Anyway, did some reading here and there and decided on purchasing the HF HVLP spray kit (same as rockler, woodcraft etc).

Question, which paint is the preferred to use. I just read the current post about Painting Furniture and per Jim's suggestion, I was planning on useing either the SW Proclassic WB or the BM Impervo WB.

Will this work good with the HF setup. IF so, do I need to thin it and with what?

Im a newbie, can you tell?

TOm

Matt Meiser
08-21-2008, 11:00 AM
I don't think you'll get good results with the WB paint. The Proclassic is fairly thick and I don't think those small turbine units have the flow to atomize it correctly. Even with a bigger tip I haven't been able to spray paint with my HVLP conversion gun. I recently bought a bottle of Flotrol additive to try to see if I can get reasonable results with that + the bigger tip. But unless you can get get a larger tip I think you'll be a step behind where I'm at.

You should be able to spray a WB lacquer product like Target Coatings USL which can be tinted. Jim recommends that regularly. One source is http://www.homesteadfinishing.com (http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/) which is owned by Jeff Jewitt.

tom holton
08-21-2008, 12:53 PM
I was planning on thinning it down. Is this still a bad idea?

Tom

Jim Becker
08-21-2008, 1:55 PM
Tom, you really cannot thin water bourne products very much at all...they are not like the old solvent based or oil based products where the solvent or oil is a reducer for the finish. Rather, water borne products use water as a transport mechanism with the finish and it's solvent in suspension. When you thin with water, you are effectively separating the finish molecules and can very quickly get a product that will not cover or cure well. 10% is the max and even that isn't ideal. Flotrol that Matt mentions isn't really for thinning. It's a product to help paint lay down a little smoother. (This according to the pros that just painted our addition quite skillfully) Even then, 10% is about the limit and if you can you don't want to go that far.

The bottom line is that the inexpensive spray systems cannot effectively handle thicker coatings, even if you can get the right projector set. (nozzle and needle) Even some better guns will not atomize it well, depending on the gun. ProClassic and Satin Impervo are best applied with a brush, pad and/or roller. Like Matt, I've tried to spray them, but with less than pleasing results.

The Target Coatings and Fuhr International products that I've sprayed are formulated to be the right consistency for spraying right out of the container and really lay down nice. Of course, they are also more expensive to source since you can't buy them "down the street".

tom holton
08-21-2008, 2:45 PM
Jim,

Thanks. Finishing is a real *^$@*.

In regard to the Target USL finishes. We actually have a distributer of the finish here in Richmond. Im planning on going down there tomorrow to check it out. I think its set up to do retail sales, but Ill see.

If I go this route, is it correct that I am looking for the Oxford USL product tinted to my color of choice? What about a topcoat? And lastly, what about a sealer first coat on the clear pine?

Ps, this is going on a baby crib. see attached photo. (take it easy, its my first real piece of furniture)(I am actually impressed with myself seeing as it was done by looking at a photo provided by wife)

Oh, and the crib is just dry fit in the photo. it actually breaks down into 5 pieces for finishing.

Tom

Wright Woodall
08-21-2008, 3:56 PM
Tom,

Nice job on the crib. Mine (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=911801#post911801) is a similar design and almost to that stage. What did you use to connect the sides to the ends? I've got an idea for mine, but still at the point where I could alter it if i find a better way.

Let me know how the painting turns out. I too was planning on going the HF HVLP with either the SW or BM waterborne paints. Not sure if Target is available locally for me.



Later...

Wright

tom holton
08-21-2008, 4:06 PM
Wright,

Hey Thanks for the positive feedback. My whole crib is done with mortise and tenons (1st time for that jointery). All in all, there are a few little errors here and there, but it looks good. It looks great to my wife who ahs lower standards than I. haha.

Turns out the Target is only clear here locally. They dont do any tinting at all...And the SW and BM waterbourne paints have all been recommneded to not use in the HF HVLP sprayer. So I am back to square one. Im on a limited budget, so i dont want to spend a fortune ordering finish online. I am concerned of hand painting all the nooks and crannies of a crib...what to do??? Dont want to use latex for durability reasons.

Tom

Matthew Voss
08-21-2008, 4:15 PM
Tom-

You can tint USL yourself. Target's finishes are very easy to work with.

Read through this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=90457

Very nice job on the crib. I know the finishing products are not cheap but a nice piece like that deserves a nice professional looking finish.

Chris Sutton
08-21-2008, 5:14 PM
Sorry to piggyback off your thread but I have a related question. I am working on some linen closet built ins that I want to have a white finish. How would it turn out if you hand painted on the SW water base acrylic paint then spray on a clear coating over it? I suppose you would get a smooth finish but would still see the brush marks in the paint?

What would you spray over paint? Water based lacquer?

Wright Woodall
08-21-2008, 6:17 PM
Wright,

Hey Thanks for the positive feedback. My whole crib is done with mortise and tenons (1st time for that jointery). All in all, there are a few little errors here and there, but it looks good. It looks great to my wife who ahs lower standards than I. haha.

Turns out the Target is only clear here locally. They dont do any tinting at all...And the SW and BM waterbourne paints have all been recommneded to not use in the HF HVLP sprayer. So I am back to square one. Im on a limited budget, so i dont want to spend a fortune ordering finish online. I am concerned of hand painting all the nooks and crannies of a crib...what to do??? Dont want to use latex for durability reasons.

Tom


Yeah, I don't want to use latex either. I may just paint it by hand with one of the local waterborne products. I hate painting, but I only have +/-19 days before the baby is born. :eek: So not much time for trial and error.

Matt Meiser
08-21-2008, 6:47 PM
The ProClassic seems to give a pretty hard finish as-is. I'm not sure there is a reason to put a clear over it. The project I used it on has visible brush marks. Using Flotrol would probably improve that. I actually intended to and just forgot.

Narayan Nayar
08-22-2008, 1:57 AM
How about a milk paint? I know those spray well, are water-based, and the "look" of milk paint suits something like a crib. I'm going to be spraying the step stool I made for my son with a milk paint.

Homestead finishing will send you some tinted USL. They've got a .pdf color chart on their website, and I ordered one with my last order of clear USL so next time I'll order some color.

tom holton
08-22-2008, 11:15 AM
Well problem solved. Turns out my original plan of having a buddy paint them is going to work after all. He has a small local cabinet shop, but more importantly he has a paint room and spray equipment. Problem solved I believe. Ill post photos when complete.

Tom