Sawmill Creek Woodworkers Community - Blogs

Following through

Shawn Pixley — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 00:43:35 GMT

I had been too busy with work and then LOML's & my trip to Japan to make much progress on the taller table. With a long weekend it seemed time to finish up this project. The two tables were to be a "Family" but not identical. The smaller one, would be a little less refined and a bit "Bushido" looking. LOML refers to it as the samurai table.

The taller one would be a bit more delicate and refined. I cut the prongs, and fit them to the top. Two prongs are glued with Titebond III and two with hide glue for removal as necessary. If I had been smarter I would have done the inlays before assembly but that water under the bridge now. I glued it all up and put on a coat of BLO prior to final prep and finishing. A couple quick pic's on the deck.

I will let the sun do its work on the cherry. The plan is to Finish the cherry with a 2lb Cut of Garnet Shellac, and the Maple with a super blonde Shellac. Plan is to finish these while I prep material for the next Project(s).

Next post should cover what I learned and what I would do differently.

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Long anticipated Mini Glaser gloat/review

Bill Wyko — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 22:09:55 GMT

Originally Posted by Bill Wyko

Here is a size comparison. The wood handled tool is crown parting tool. it weighs 8.0 ounces. The Glaser weighs 1lb 1 ounce. over twice as heavy as the wood handled tool. This should translate into a little tool working like a big tool. Needless to say, I can't wait to get on the lathe. The handle is a little over 8-1/2 inches by itself. Overal length will vary slightly depending on the tool inserted in it.

Not done with the first, but time for the second

Shawn Pixley — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 17:57:51 GMT

As I was finishing up my pair of tables, my mind turned to the next project. I have been considering how to design a guitar display cabinet for a while. I find that as I complete one project, my mind is free to work on the design for another. Additionally, SWMBO had co-opted the shop (aka garage) for a staging area to purge her excess "stuff". So now that I could neither get my car in the garage, nor use my tools, I had an afternoon for design. After looking online at others' who have done this, I decided on a few things.

Having the case itself it sit on the floor was not viable to display or handle the guitars
Due to the number of guitars it would hold, it would be massive
I wanted it to be furniture not cabinetry
Due to the necessary size of the piece,it would be necessary to break up the top and bottom elements
I like floating elements in my work, I would strive for this
After building the last several pieces with curves, I thought I would explore something different. In any case I started with some dimensions that would accommodate the guitars and started to lay out fundamental proportions. I was tempted to start by using Sketch up but given that I was in a creative mood I went back to tracing paper to iterate quickly. I worked through several ideas, Narrowed these down and started to develop them.

Despite wanting not to use curves predominantly, I couldn't help myself. The muntin designs didn't really add to the piece so they were eliminated. While they work with shojii screens, they didn't help here. I did like the taper. After talking this through I doubled the scale and prepared an isometric back ground to visualize in three dimensions. While I generally can see and design in three dimensions, others need the sketch.

I also started to play with the stiles on the doors to see if I could make the piece a bit less "blocky". I tape things to the wall to allow for review and discussion.

I colored these to determine how differing species of wood could help to reduce the mass. The design is still not complete, But I finally feel I have a direction to refine...

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Facets

Shawn Pixley — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 17:08:25 GMT

I am a bit delinquent with my posting. This was done a while ago, but I didn't get to it as quickly as I should.

With the basic frame assembled, I set my mind to the prongs. I need to refine both the shape and determine how to tie the various elements together. In the mock-up, I had focused on the joinery rather than the shape itself. After exploring a few different shapes I determined it should continue to sweep out a bit and be faceted rather than rounded. I also wanted a bit of emphasis on the prongs. Not so much as to detract from the live edge maple but enough not to be viewed as a weak cousin to the top. I had inlayed a small bit of ebony on the tall table's rails, so I thought I would continue with that.

I laid up the stock and went through my sequence of operations. Because of my distaste of routers I did this joinery by hand. Each of them were hand fitted to both the top and to the arcs. Unfortunately due to this persnickety work, I didn't take enough progress pictures. But an afternoon later, I was able to dry fit the table.

I let the piece sit dry fit for a week while I considered what embellishment might or might not work on the arc's. I kicked this can down the road for a while but now I need to fish or cut bait. My first thought was an inlay on the rails. I am drawn to Japanese design, so I did a bit of research. I then inlayed a circle of ebony and looked at it for a while. Eventually, I developed a pair of motifs for each table. For the short table, people would get too close to the the arc so it would need to be simpler, but bolder. For the taller table, you'll just have to wait.

I was really liking how the wane edge contrasted to the arc. The picture above with the shadow was shot by my wife when I was at work, she had been skeptical about this contrast but she became a convert. For the taller table, will be more delicate as to will be closer to the eye. I worked out a series of circles that would mimic the arc. A quick morning of inlay and I am ready to assemble. Afterwards a quick coat of BLO and a photo on the deck.

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Recovery

Shawn Pixley — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:51:52 GMT

With the router blow-out, I needed to reconsider how to get my legs uniform so they will fit in the dados. I could get a different trim bit and try again. I could sand to the line (ugh!). Or I could use a spokeshave or compass plane. Since I am a hybrid woodworker - tailed and non-tailed tools, I decided to use the spokeshave (but it could have been an excuse for a compass plane since I do so much curved work). I have a cheap Spokeshave that isn't very good but I can get a very sharp edge and make it passable. The next weekend was spent working through the legs to get the uniform and carefully fit them to the Arc Dado Joint. After that I did the leg taper. I've started to name this project the Laurel and Hardy Tables (one tall and skinny and the other short and fat in their proportions).

Because I wanted the two pieces to be a family (similar but not quite identical), I would try to emphasize the skinny-ness of the taller piece (Stanley) by using a double rail with a bit of ebony inlay. This would be wasted on the smaller one due to its diminutive height (I don't think people are going to lay on the floor to examine its rails). Over the weekend, I got both bases assembled (sorry, I didn't take progress pictures). I took the pieces upstairs and laid their respective to on them. So far, so good.

Time to take another step back to consider two things - the prongs and the inlay. For the prongs while I had worked out the joinery technique and new how I could build them, they still seemed a bit clunky to me. One thing I was going to do was mimic the ebony on the rails. For inlay I had been previously undecided whether the Arc would benefit from an inlay or would this be viewed as ornamentation for ornamentation's sake.

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The blow-out

Shawn Pixley — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:23:33 GMT

Anyone who knows me recognizes that the router is my least favorite tool. It can be the right tool for the right job, but I will go a long way to avoid using them. Because of the nature of the piece and the joinery required, I was going to use the router to trim all of the legs to the template I created. This would allow me to cut the dados on the arc ahead of time and still be assured that they would form a tight joint. Because I was doing two pieces at the same time, I wanted to make the pieces as interchangeable as possible.

I spent the weekend getting the stock all prepared. After which, I did the cutting of the arcs and legs (steps 1-8 in the sequence of operations). I had used the router Table to trim the mockup and it had worked wonderfully. But now I was doing it on my Cherry. I had never worked with cherry before but up to this point it worked similarly to maple. I had cut close to my layout line so I would be routing off between 1/32" and 1/16". I typically do this in very small passes. The first side of one leg goes well but the second side blows up on me!

Despite my going with the grain, a huge piece is no longer there. I have enough stock to redo this leg. but if another one goes, I will need more. I stop for the day to rethink my approach. I really hate the router.

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New website

Sean Troy — Tue, 23 Aug 2011 01:52:17 GMT

Not woodworking but I just finished making a new website for the club volleyball org. my daughter plays in during the winter. Next up for me is rebuilding my own woodworking web site. hgvavolleyball.net

Stepping Back

Shawn Pixley — Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:25:44 GMT

After I posted the last Blog entry I worked on the prong end. The prototype had left me with corrections to the sequence of operations but I couldn't (or shouldn't) go further without determining how I was going to fabricate the prong ends. They needed to be removable and of a tight tolerance given the nature of the design intent. I drew many different joints out at full scale but ultimately decided on a sliding dovetail connection. I mocked this up in poplar as well taking notes along the way. I then bounced this past other local woodworkers to garner their opinion.

I recognized that if I was to use this joint then I needed very accurate measurements and calculations for the Arc. This also meant I needed to fabricate the second top before continuing. Unfortunately other issues got in the way (Fair entries, redoing a floor for SWMBO, etc...) before I could get to this. I am still a bit unsure of the dimensions of the joint and the profile of the back, but I have the ability to correct / modify this on the real piece. Now on to the rough-out of the real wood.

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First learnings

Shawn Pixley — Sat, 09 Jul 2011 01:44:38 GMT

I learn something new from each project. Usually, it is how not to do something. In this case, I didn't label my pieces as well as I might have, so I ended up with a bit of a mess-up in one joint. Luckily, this is when to do it. In any case here are the two concepts:

Here are the completed views of the arc / leg assembly. First, slightly proud back, proud front.

Second, Front proud and Back flush.

When stepping back from the Arc, the leg that is proud on the back interferes with the visual of the arc's curve. I think that I will go in this direction. Next, on to the Prong joint.

The mock-up and choices

Shawn Pixley — Sat, 09 Jul 2011 01:32:59 GMT

After I get the concepts more or less set, I start to think practical. The first thing do (usually mentally), is figure out a draft sequence of operations. Here is my initial concept for this project.

Initial sequence thoughts

Legs Bandsaw curve & retape
Legs cut top angle
Legs Cut slot for bridle joint
Legs bandsaw taper & retape
Arc cut bridle joint dado
Arc bandsaw curve and retape
Arc taper ends
Arc & Legs router trim to templates
(end joint fabrication)
Remove offcuts
Legs cut stretcher mortises
Arc and Legs Round over 1/8" edges
Inlay arc (as desired)
Stretcher fabricate
Dry fit
While clamped, mark legs for trimming bottom
While clamped, measure and mark for bottom shelf as necessary
Template bottom shelf
Cut mortises in legs for bottom shelf
Test fit and fabricate bottom shelf
Dry fit assembly
Add stringing to "feet" (inlay?)
Glue up frame assembly
Pin bridle joint
Trim and round over leg tops
Mock up top?
End joint mortise in arc
Fabricate facet mounts (prongs) square with joint (without seat for facet)
Test fit
From template cut birds mouth and seat in prong (match arc of top)
Test fit top
Shape facet prongs
Test fit and sand prior to glue up
Mask off joints
Finish assembly pieces
Assemble and glue prongs and Arc together (hide glue for future prong removal)

After this is done, I create my template for the curves. I used 1/4 birch ply this time. I managed to delete the pictures I took of template making and layout making. The templates are very straight forward. With the layout, I try to be very precise and anticipate build issues. I find with curves, once things become round some tasks get inordinately difficult without building jigs. (I hate building jigs). I glued up poplar for the prototype and jointed it when dry. Layout on the stock the pieces to be cut, in this case a long leg and the arc. Due to the number of steps, I printed out a copy of the sequence of operations to take notes on while I am fabricating.

There are four things I am looking to explore with the prototype build.

Tall vs short table (overnight I came to the conclusion, "why choose?" So I think I will be building one of each.)
Leg dimension and how it intersects the Arc (Equally proud front and back, Flush with the back, More proud front than back)
Verify sequence of operations
Validate construction methods on cheap materials before wasting good lumber

I found several improvements in the sequence of operations. Unfortunately, I also realized the prong joint to the arc was going to be more difficult than I thought initially. I punted on that for now. I will draw it out full size (using my template of course) to figure out just how I want to do it. I have an easy solution, but I think it will detract from the very "finished" aesthetic I am trying to craft here. More later...

I decided that equally proud front and back wasn't working for me to I mocked up the two different joints on ether end of the Arc.

I am out of picture space on this post, so the next will be the prototype reveal.

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Design Process - My approach (Design Developement continued)

Shawn Pixley — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 01:53:19 GMT

LOML wanted to see a lower shelf on the tall version. What LOML wants, she gets.

I then tape them up to the wall to review and consider for a while.

With all of this there was no clear winner. I liked both the tall version and the shorter version. What to do then? Of course, mock up each.

Design Process - My approach (Design Developement)

Shawn Pixley — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 01:47:05 GMT

After sitting on the idea for a while, I decided it stall had merit. So the next step is to draw it up. I tend to work in 3"=1'-0" scale for a project of this size. I had initially conceived of this as a small table to sit by the couch that LOML might put her magazines or laptop on. I first drew it up as if it were right for that purpose. I chose to start with it being square in proportion when viewed from the front. I draft it out out in proportion and then sketch over it in trace. Here is the first version in the three orthogonal views:

Attachment 200692

I had also resawn the Billet, jointed and book-matched what I felt to be the top

When looking at the design, it clearly wasn't right. It was either too tall or not tall enough. After sleeping on this, I got up and developed two more concepts. I also drew it as an isometric to convey to others how it might look in three dimensions. I don't need this for myself, but I find others need it more.

LOML liked the tall one but wanted to see a lower shelf option.

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Excalibur EX-21

Kevin Gregoire — Fri, 01 Jul 2011 22:36:08 GMT

i have had my new/used Excalibur EX-21 scroll saw for about a month now and im finally starting to get the hang of it.
it needed a few things at first and still does but im happy with the way its running and i have made a few nice items.
this saw really lives up to its reputation! very very solid saw, the tilting head is a great feature.
i need to find a good magnifier/light to use with the saw along with a small vac for dust collection.
i just wish it was still painted in the cool purple or black or anything but the machine green!

all in all, its a great saw and i highly recommend it!

Incra 2000 cutting small segments

Bill Clark De — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 22:38:08 GMT

Recently i was setting up my incra 2000 miter gauge to cut some small pieces(one inch) at the widest on 15 degree ...when i notice my fingers weren't all that comfortable with the distance to the blade.
after 70 plus years i've become accustom to the balance of 10 fingers ..does anyone have any suggestions for a hold down for this Incra
Bill

twillusa

Ron Thompson — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 04:46:07 GMT

Steve,

We have a Epilog 45 watt mini and 3 Melco Amaya embroidery machines. If you look at the photos, and if I were to embroider that design the number of stitches would run the cost up to around $100 for the sweatshirt, plus it takes alot of time to stitch out a large design. (remember how thin a thread is) Now if I use the twill instead of stitching, the same sweatshirt will run around $40.00.

The Sports Twill comes in PSA and PSA PERM. The PSA would be used if I wanted to stitch a border as a outline around the logo. That's called an applique. An the adhesive will hold the twill long enough to tack it down with stitches.

If you use the PSA PERM, you just cut it on your laser and then heat press it to your garmet. It will not come off.

The cool thing to do is do a two color design. Take the clear backing off of you darkest color, smooth it over the base color. Then laser it with two power settings (vector - no raster). One to only cut through the top layer and a second to cut throuh both layers at the same time. Then weed out the top color and heat press it on your garmet.

Steve, try it, you can order a yard of two different colors for around $12.00 all you need is a heat press and your all set.

Ron Thompson