Since my G0766 is now out of the standard 1 year warranty period, and after turning those 5'-0" long posts for a bed, I feel the need to investigate adding a pendant control. The 3rd post I made gave me a firm belief that such a control is a necessity, because I had a catch near the tailstock end which caused the whole pole to come flying loose at me. Luckily, I was only bruised on my right arm, but I still had to reach way over to the left to shut off the motor. I would like to have a box that I can have down on the tailstock end, with E-Stop, and speed control at least. Has anyone done this to a G0766? If so, can you supply diagrams, parts lists, and instructions? Thanks ahead of time for the assistance.
I'm expecting my G0766 to arrive within the next couple of days. I've always had a foot switch on my Jet 1442 and I'm planning on building one for the Griz. Haven't worked it all out yet, but I couldn't find an affordable commercial foot switch, so I'm going to build one using a regular (light type) double pole switch. I've found the foot switch invaluable when doing hollow vessels. I can insert and retract the tool carefully with the lathe off, and only turn it on when I'm ready to cut.
Mark...it is my belief that there are similarities between the wiring in the PM 3520b and the Grizz G0766. I might be wrong on this, however, there are threads on making one for the 3520b and if I were you, I would do a search for a thread, see if there are pics or descriptions about the process that could be adapted to the G0766. David Roseman might chime in on this thread, and likely has at least some level of understanding on what it would take. Welcome Adrian to the GGMG.......looks like you are our 200th member, feel free to post some pics when you get set up with your new G0766.
Mark, I looked into this a while back, but got sidetracked and never got around to it. My plan was to install a 3PDT (3 pole, double throw) switch to switch between the existing potentiometer and a new one I'd use on the remote pendant. That is, there are 3 wire connections from the potentiometer to the VFD and the new (identical) potentiometer will also have 3 connections. The 3PDT switch above lets you switch between the two potentiometers-- select which you want to use and you're good to go. I'd have to verify the wiring, but my intention was to also install a emergency stop on the pendent as well-- which I believe you should be able to wire in series with the existing emergency stop switch. Overall it shouldn't be too technically difficult of a project. Plenty of work, for sure, but my gut feeling is that it should all be pretty straight forward once you have the parts in hand.
There are at least two different approaches to the emergency stop switch: 1. Wire the two switches in series. In operation, you would have to turn on the original switch first and then turn on the remote switch. Hitting either stop would stop the lathe. 2. Wire the switches in parallel. In operation you would push on ONE of the two switches to run the lathe. You would shut off the lathe by hitting the stop button on the switch that you pressed to turn on the lathe. Either approach has its own set of pros and cons but either would work. For the remote speed control, there are three wires. Only one (the Green or center wiper) has to be switched. The 10 volt power (yellow) and the ground (blue) would not need to be switched. So you would need a SPDT (single pole double throw) switch. Preferably the switch would be on the original panel to minimize wire lengths.
Part 2: I will post approach 2 on the photo page. The black dots signify a new connection (wire nut or solder) and assumes that you have some proficiency in wiring 220 volt and low voltage wiring. It might be necessary to use a shielded wire (connect to chassis ground or the blue wire) for the remote pot. Use Griz parts for the emerg. switch and pot. The SPDT switch can be bought on ebay or radio shack. If you get a small enough one it could be mounted on the original control panel.
ok, thanks.
Brice: I see you've marked up the wiring diagram, and again thank you.
You are welcome. At some point I will add this to my lathe. When I turn from the backside of my lathe (like when hollowing) I dislike blindly reaching for the speed control. It seems pretty straight forward. I think that it is best to use a 3 conductor shielded cable for the remote potentiometer, to reduce the potential for noise pickup to occur. Also, it might make sense to run a separate pair of two-conductor cables to the remote shutoff box. It would be best to use a plastic box for the remote box. But if you do use a metal box, then I'd highly recommend either running a chassis ground wire to the box or electrically bolting it to the chassis. It may also help to put a 0.01 microfarad ceramic disk capacitor from the potentiometer wiper to ground. If you go ahead with this and have issues, just PM me. Keep us posted.
I finally my be nearing an end to my home remods, and I have acquired a bunch of electrical components for the remote control box. The previous posts had a remote On-Off, but can an extra speed pot also be added remotely? It would be nice and safer to have these controls available on the safer side of the spinning wood. What do you think?
