Mark, if you don't have one, a portaband would make your fabrication much quicker and easier. Also pay for itself with the first project. (Doesn't every tool? ). I rarely revert to a hand hacksaw now, even on small items. Harbor Freight actually has a quite decent one that you can pick up for about $80 with a 20% coupon. What welding setup will you be using?
FYI, here's the HF link, as they don't index it under the generic "portaband". http://www.harborfreight.com/portabl...saw-47840.html
I finally got to turn a piece of wood. Or should I say re-turn a piece I started a few weeks ago. The handled cherry bowl I started needed to be tried, and either I have a shaft that's bent (unlikely), or the adapter for the Nova G3 chuck (Nova brand) was not seated squarely on the shaft. The bowl was obviously wobbly, but I was able to true it on the exterior. I may have to file the flat area on the shaft down to allow the adapters to seat flush against the shoulder of the shaft nearest the bearing. The different switch configuration from the PM's I've used is a bit confusing, but I am sure I can get used to it. Once the warranty has expired, I will probably get a heavier duty E-Stop switch. That plastic hinged thing is pretty cheesy. That's definitely one place where Grizzly tried to save expense. The machine is very quiet though, and accelerates smoothly. I still really need to clean my area of all the stuff so I can maneuver safely.
Mark.......I had the same switch configuration on my G0698 that I had for over 5 years and the club has it now. That switch has stood the test of time and use! The G0766 will likely do the same, in my opinion. Of course I am one who does not use the "pound and slam, herc & jerk technique" when I move things or shut off switches. If you punch those switches like I have seen some turners do on the Jets and PM's then those switches will last you for years!
I meant to say don't punch the switches!
Also, I kept trying to true up the winged bowl, and seemed my freshly sharpened bowl gouges would not make a cut. That's when I discovered L-O-R switch was on R. I thought like PM's R meant Reverse - no way Jose - L=counter-clockwise; R=clockwise. DUH.
And, YES, the banjo resting point (where tool rest shoulder stops at downward travel) is too high. I also need to get a much shorter tool rest for my smaller projects. Any recommendations?
I like the Robust rests, Mark. I have 3 of them. You will need the long post versions, and if you are doing some small work, I don't think you can beat the 6" low profile rest with long post. I also have the 15" comfort rest with long post and the inside curve bowl rest with long post. At some point I am going to get a 14" "j" rest also.
Thanks Roger. I'll check those out soon.
