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The attached picture is one leg of my table. The area where the other apron sits on top of the edge grain of the three boards isn't level and the apron won't sit flat. The part that is raised is just one edge of the three boards, I think. Obviously this is a problem.
How can I level this off? Sandpaper, hand plane (I don't have one), chisel? Keep in mind, it doesn't have to be a nice finish since the apron will be going over it.
Amy
Why not trim it using a cross-cut sled?
Since you don't have a plane I would use a wood rasp and then a file, and then sandpaper if need be.
I would use a sharp chisel to rim the area that is not flat.
This is what I was thinking. It had not occured to me that I could use a cross-sut sled or my miter saw to trim it, but I would worry I would take off too much. But I didn't know what a rasp was. I think I will check on that. It might actually be in my budget :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Yerardi
Thanks, guys!
Amy
I would think that the "easiest" and "safest" way would to be to pare down the leg (the area where the apron will sit) with a sharp paring chisel. Attempting to sand or file this area is going to be difficult because you will need to get right down into to the corner of the "ledge" on which the apron rests. The problem is compounded by the fact that the side apron is already attached and the mitered end protrudes past the face you need to square up. In the future, this would be a lot easier if you "dry fit" everything first. Then you could make these adjustments before you actually assemble the pieces.
YM
PS The term "
It's only a small amount and will be hidden do you have a belt sander?
How did you cut it in the first place you cold trim it on the miter saw.
This is a dry fit. The side apron is not attached yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoshikuni Masato
"...The side apron is not attached yet..."
In that case, any of the suggested methods will "work". I would still "lobby" for the sharp chisel simply because it is much easier to be precise and accurate with one than it will be with sandpaper and/or rasps.
YM
I ripped four 1x3's down to 2 1/4" on the TS, glued them all face to face, then glued a 3" 1x on the front to cover these end grains. I don't have a planer and have no idea who even has one that I know around here. It was hard enough finding a table saw around here.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason lambert
It seems everyone guy I asked here in Alabama had the opinion of, "Well, I could just rip them with a circular saw, and I wouldn't need a guide or nothin'." Macho at it's best... or worst, depending on your outlook.
Seems like the perfect reason to go get a low angle block plane. It is the easiest way to deal with this issue, and you'll find yourself using it all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amy Leigh Baker
Well I'll add my 2 cents.
It appears the shoulder cuts on the leg are not square. If this true for all the shoulder cuts it could get real tedious trying to tune them all. Although I might have a go at it with my medium shoulder plane
If it were me I'd set up my crosscut sled and recut the shoulders square, setting a stop block off the bottom of the leg for repeatability. doesn't look like much material has to be taken off. And if result is the 'tenon' part of the leg sits proud of the apron then I'd trim that off.
To get those apron miters to close the shoulders need to be square and the inside of the leg tenon needs to be square. The 45s on the apron need to be accurate as well.
Dan
Attachment 83288
edit: If there are tapers on the legs then recutting is not an option
"Macho at it's best... or worst, depending on your outlook."
A real "macho man" would not care if it fit correctly in the first place....
YM
Amy,Quote:
Originally Posted by Amy Leigh Baker
You can carefuly sneak up on the cut. Clamp a stop block to the cross-cut sled fence and then you can add playing cards as shims to advance the leg closer to the blade. I hope that makes sense.
I don't think you need a plane or a chisel or a rasp. After looking at the pictures, I would clamp a straight piece of material square to the leg with it sitting on the ledge (end grain) and use a hand saw preferably a thin bladed pull saw and using the straight edge as a guide saw down to level the ledge (end grain). This technique can be used to adjust many joint fits.