Stickley Small Settle #207

I'm hoping someone might have already built this and can help. I purchased Robert Lang's plans and have a problem I'm not sure how to solve. This settle has a hinged top that opens to reveal a small storage compartment. The lid itself sits between two side stiles and a back piece. the only positive contact the plan shows the lid having is that it rests on the front cross-piece. The back of the lid is supposed to be hinged with butt hinges to the back stile. There is no indication in the plan as to how the three pieces around the lid are held down. As they would be long grain to long grain Lang suggests that even just gluing them would work. But if the lid is hinged to the back piece I'm having trouble seeing how this would be stable when someone actually sat on the settle.

Has anyone built this and solved this problem? Many thanks in advance!!

I expect Bob will be along soon enough to provide an answer. In the meantime, I had a look at a few photos and the L & J. G. Stickley catalog and I think I understand how the seat is made. I don't know how thick Bob has the seat parts but they appear in the photos to be about 7/8 in. thick. I expect the oak would be stiff enough at that thickness so that you wouldn't need additional support. It would be easy enough to add a rail underneath the hinge line if you wanted to go belt and suspenders. I modeled it up and could show you if you want to contact me.

Dave's suggestion to add an additional rail below the piece with the hinges is a good one if you're still not convinced. This is a fairly typical form for a bench with storage below the seat. I'm not understanding where your concern is when it comes to someone sitting on the seat. What do you think is going to happen exactly?

Bob Lang

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Richards

I expect Bob will be along soon enough to provide an answer. In the meantime, I had a look at a few photos and the L & J. G. Stickley catalog and I think I understand how the seat is made. I don't know how thick Bob has the seat parts but they appear in the photos to be about 7/8 in. thick. I expect the oak would be stiff enough at that thickness so that you wouldn't need additional support. It would be easy enough to add a rail underneath the hinge line if you wanted to go belt and suspenders. I modeled it up and could show you if you want to contact me.

---

Thanks Dave.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bob Lang

Dave's suggestion to add an additional rail below the piece with the hinges is a good one if you're still not convinced. This is a fairly typical form for a bench with storage below the seat. I'm not understanding where your concern is when it comes to someone sitting on the seat. What do you think is going to happen exactly?

Bob Lang

---

I was mainly concern that the weight of someone on the lid/seat could cause the back piece to pull off if it was only glued. I'm assuming the butt hinges would be visible on the top of the back of the seat.

Here is a look inside. If there is a decent glue joint between the horizontal and the vertical piece below it, you have created a beam that will bear an incredible amount of weight. If you're not sure about that there is plenty of room to add a square block to the corner between those two pieces.

Attachment 403477

Bob Lang

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bob Lang

Here is a look inside. If there is a decent glue joint between the horizontal and the vertical piece below it, you have created a beam that will bear an incredible amount of weight. If you're not sure about that there is plenty of room to add a square block to the corner between those two pieces.

Attachment 403477

Bob Lang

---

Thanks Bob. I really appreciate the help. I've not tried this before and haven't experienced the strength of those glue joints.

Assuming the surfaces make good contact when gluing, a long grain glue joint will be stronger than the wood.

I'm not sure on the original if the end pieces are turned so the grain runs front to back although I suspect they are considering the way Bob shows the back piece running into the side piece. That would result in an end grain to face grain joint which wouldn't be especially strong. I would be inclined to make the entire seat panel up, rip off the back piece, then cut the sides from the lid and clue the sides back onto the back piece to create a wide U shape. This will result in exposed end grain but the grain direction will be the same on all of the parts. The back piece will then bridge the two end panels as well as sitting on the back panel. Exposed end grain isn't uncommon on Stickley pieces anyway. If you use quartersawn stock there'll be minimal seasonal movement but I would attach the ends of the seat assembly to the side panels with glue blocks. Glue the blocks to the side panels and put elongated screw holes in them to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction.

Also, use decent hinges. Don't use those thin, brass plated tin foil hinges you commonly get from the big box stores.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Richards

Assuming the surfaces make good contact when gluing, a long grain glue joint will be stronger than the wood.

I'm not sure on the original if the end pieces are turned so the grain runs front to back although I suspect they are considering the way Bob shows the back piece running into the side piece. That would result in an end grain to face grain joint which wouldn't be especially strong. I would be inclined to make the entire seat panel up, rip off the back piece, then cut the sides from the lid and clue the sides back onto the back piece to create a wide U shape. This will result in exposed end grain but the grain direction will be the same on all of the parts. The back piece will then bridge the two end panels as well as sitting on the back panel. Exposed end grain isn't uncommon on Stickley pieces anyway. If you use quartersawn stock there'll be minimal seasonal movement but I would attach the ends of the seat assembly to the side panels with glue blocks. Glue the blocks to the side panels and put elongated screw holes in them to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction.

Also, use decent hinges. Don't use those thin, brass plated tin foil hinges you commonly get from the big box stores.

---

Thanks Dave.