A very small dovetailing aid

I am nearing halfway of eight drawers for my chest. It occurred that one of the little aids I use when dovetailing may be helpful for others.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...psflhq4uxp.jpg

It came time to transfer the tails to the pin board ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ps6n1ipytw.jpg

What you see here is a bow drawer front which will have half-blind sockets (the area in blue). The remainder will be sawn away (into a bow front) once the dovetails have been completed. This is done later, rather than earlier, so as to retain a reference side.

The issue here is to ensure that the drawer sides are square with the drawer front.

All one needs is a simple rectangle that is about 3/4" high. It must be square on the inside.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...psr0btu1qq.jpg

It is even easier to use when joining through dovetails.

Once done, use the square as a rest for your chisels ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...psm0llhsvd.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Cool square!

Im curious as to why you chose to use so many chisels rather than say, one fishtail shaped chisel that can be used for chopping?

Hi Brian

The 3/16" chisel was for the tails. I use the 1" bench chisel for splitting out the waste from the pins (it is used with a small mallet), after the baseline has been drilled. The slick is for paring the waste remaining. The fishtail is only used in the corners (that keeps it sharp for when it is needed).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Ah, makes sense since you drill the baseline. I have not chopped jarrah, but I assume it's not so enjoyable.

I switched from using a fishtail pared in the corners to fishtail bench chisels for the entire process (on the pin board). It's increased the speed significantly, but I chop.

Quote:

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All one needs is a simple rectangle that is about 3/4" high. It must be square on the inside.

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The purpose made square/rectangle is likely better, for me a framing square does the job:

Attachment 331177

What ever works.

jtk

Tried that, Jim. A framing square is too large and too skinny. Even with small squares they are too low to create decent reference sides.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Derek Cohen

Tried that, Jim. A framing square is too large and too skinny. Even with small squares they are too low to create decent reference sides.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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If you look close at the picture you can see the square is setting on some scrap and a second piece being used as a reference surface against the tail board.

Yours is an elegant solution, mine is rigged up on the fly.

jtk

Thanks Derek,

I made a copy of your dovetail square last night. This morning I made a test set of dovetails. The base alignment was dead nuts on, I could not feel any misalignment. It is a useful addition to my shop.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...psqxoa7prs.jpg

ken

Thanks Derek!

I'd been using a scrap to align the reference sides and then sighting the baseline gap. While this works pretty well, your square is a step above. I'll be making one of these soon.

Just for good measure, here is a through dovetail I did today ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...psfwt5xnmk.jpg

As you can see, it is not the easiest shape to align ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...psyeazer3e.jpg

Rear of drawers ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ps9sedmthk.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for another technique, Derek. Question: do you rabbet your tail boards? If one does, then as long as the reference faces are flush at the intersection, wouldn't they be square too?

Hi Prashun

I do not rebate the tail board. It is just one more thing to do. And even if one does, it only takes a very small deviation to cause the boards to end up poorly aligned.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I hadn't considered squaring up the boards when marking. I am embarking on 8 drawers, so I will do this. Thanks!