DC is roughed in

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11-25-2009, 4:46 PM
Mitchell Andrus

3 Attachment(s)

DC is roughed in

A few shots of the roughed-in ductwork. Final hook-ups will have to wait til the rest of the toys are moved in. 8 drops, 2 will split again. 10 hook-ups plus the floor sweep.

Took about 8 hours to get this far.

I'm soooo glad I used OSB on the walls and ceiling. No problem screwing anything, anyplace.

So.... they sell silicone sealant in 5 gallon pails?

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11-25-2009, 4:49 PM
JohnT Fitzgerald

very nice setup! I can't wait to see that space filled with 'toys'... :)
11-25-2009, 9:44 PM
Michael Schapansky

I find myself a teensy bit envious. My Grizzly 2HP DC has been mounted to the wall for nearly a year now. It has not sucked more than once. (I turned it on briefly to test it) There is not a single piece of ducting anywhere in my shop or on the grounds. Maybe...someday....sheesh.
11-26-2009, 10:32 AM
Rick Moyer

Michael, you're not alone! I don't do much woodworking in the summer though, and bought the DC when cashback was 20% or 25%. Hopefully this winter I will get everything set up.
11-26-2009, 10:36 AM
David Christopher

Mitchell, your shop looks clean enough that you dont need a DC..LOL....nice setup
11-26-2009, 11:17 AM
Jim Becker

Lookin' good, Mitchell!!! It's really great that you could do this install prior to moving the tools in, too. Safer. Easier.
11-26-2009, 1:15 PM
Mitchell Andrus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Becker

Lookin' good, Mitchell!!! It's really great that you could do this install prior to moving the tools in, too. Safer. Easier.

I can't imagine getting a ladder in and around all of the heavy machines, benches....

Yesterday. I ran the copper for the air. 3 drops and a ceiling mounted hose/reel. Now I still need to run the low voltage lines for the gate controller, about an hour. I'm pretty much ready for the big move in the spring/summer. I really thought I'd be at it a little longer than this. I'm done earlier than expected.
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11-26-2009, 10:17 PM
Art Mulder

Yeah, real clean.

I'm scratching my head about that little partial wall in the 2nd photo. Is that load-bearing? Seems in an odd place.

...art
11-27-2009, 8:52 AM
Mitchell Andrus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Art Mulder

Yeah, real clean.

I'm scratching my head about that little partial wall in the 2nd photo. Is that load-bearing? Seems in an odd place.

...art

I was wondering if anyone would ask.... I've got a floor-mounted hollow chisel mortiser and a 6x89 horizontal belt sander that will go back-to-back against that wall. The table saw will sit about center in the space towards the photographer. The wall is voluntary and can be moved/removed but I'd still have 3 machines in need of wiring and DC ducts in the center of the space.... so why not a 4 foot section of wall to secure all that stuff? Also, the extra wall space will be adorned with hooks and shelves, maybe a cabinets or two for odds and ends. 'can never have too much wall space.
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11-28-2009, 2:18 AM
Fred Floyd

Great looking shop area. It appears that you have the two most important things in place at the beginning -- dust collection and a heater. I put in a heater last year after 12 years in the current garage shop. Now working in the shop is a pleasure when it is 40 outside and 63 in the shop.
11-28-2009, 2:31 AM
Alan Schaffter

Looks neat without tools.

It looks like a decent sized DC but you sure are reducing its capability significantly with your ducting, however, to achieve that look. The rule is to minimize resistance by running the duct the shortest and most direct way from the machine to the DC with as few turns as possible, and especially avoiding 90's if at all possible. If you look at the static pressure tables you are loosing a bunch of efficiency right off the bat with that one duct that loops and the other that has a sharp 90 right in front of the cyclone inlet. Also, by running your duct along the walls you add more 90's. Granted your lights create a bit of a problem, but you would have been much better off running a single diagonal main from the DC to the opposite corner and running laterals off of it using 45 wyes like a tree. If your drops are an indication where you will position your machines, you would have been better off locating the DC near where the camera is located in the first picture.
11-28-2009, 10:04 AM
Mitchell Andrus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan Schaffter

Looks neat without tools.

It looks like a decent sized DC but you sure are reducing its capability significantly with your ducting, however, to achieve that look. The rule is to minimize resistance by running the duct the shortest and most direct way from the machine to the DC with as few turns as possible, and especially avoiding 90's if at all possible. If you look at the static pressure tables you are loosing a bunch of efficiency right off the bat with that one duct that loops and the other that has a sharp 90 right in front of the cyclone inlet. Also, by running your duct along the walls you add more 90's. Granted your lights create a bit of a problem, but you would have been much better off running a single diagonal main from the DC to the opposite corner and running laterals off of it using 45 wyes like a tree. If your drops are an indication where you will position your machines, you would have been better off locating the DC near where the camera is located in the first picture.

Yea, life is a series of compromises... then you die.

The sharpest bend is right at the DC at the top of the first rise (ceiling). A diagonal riser there would help and a diagonal run across that area would have eliminated the 90 degree in the far corner granted, but the only machines on that run are not dust intense and will get about twice the suckedness that I'm getting now with a 2hp canister and 4" pipe/hoses in my current shop, so I'll be OK.

I put the ammeter on it as is and it pulls 12.7 amps. The FLA (full load amps) is 14.5.