Finishing a Cherry Desktop

Hi Everyone. Reading posts on this forum really helped me with my first three finishing projects. I still feel like a novice, so for this next one, I thought I'd actually register and ask for some input.

I have a Danish modern computer desk with metal T-legs that I'd like to upgrade. I would like to remove the top of the desk, which is light maple-look vinyl veneer over MDF, and replace it with real wood to match other cherry in my house.

My first thought for wood was a solid piece of alder that I stain cherry (as I've done on previous projects). However, a co-worker introduced me to a wood store here in Portland (Crosscut) that has an incredible selection. I now plan on buying cherry plywood and using cherry veneer around the edges. I'll leave it natural, of course.

For finishing, I don't have spray equipment, so I'm limited to wipe on or brush on finishes, or something in a spray can. I've already finished projects in polyurethane, so I'd like to try something different. I'm willing to sacrifice durability for a change, especially if it is repairable (I'm actually quite gentle with my desk, just the occational beverage on a coaster).

So I'm thinking of oil or shellac.

BLO seems to be popular with cherry, but having read much of Bob Flexner's book, tung oil seems to be more durable (and smell better). I've also read a post here that shellac over tung oil looks good, so that's an option, too.

Am I on the right track? Has anyone had experience with something besides polyurethane varnish on a cherry desk? Or should I stick with a poly and try oil/shellac on a different project?

I'm a big fan of BLO first, as it really brings out the grain. Follow with shellac and topcoat of your choice - I'm sure others will chime in with more suggestions.

The reason I posted was to question using cherry plywood for the desk top. It looks great, but I'm afraid it won't be very durable. The veneer on cherry plywood is really thin and any wear and tear will break through the top veneer. If you can glue on your own veneer you can get something thicker than commercial plywood that may work. I think it is OK for shelves and cabinets sides, but not a desk top.

I know that wasn't your question, but I have been working with cherry plywood on my kitchen cabinets and I don't think it is sturdy enough for a desk top.

Good luck!

Roger

Thanks! That's the kind of advise I can use. I'm glad I posted before I bought anything.

What would be a good base for veneer? Another type of plywood? Some type of solid wood? I would like to avoid MDF if possible.

I'm a tad confused. If you use cherry plywood and a veneer on the edges, then why do you need a 'base for the veneer'?

Personally, I'd use solid stock; it'll save you the headache of banding the edges and it'll give you more flexibility of edge treatments (roundovers/ogees, etc.)

A popular choice for cherry is BLO then shellac then a topcoat. However, in my limited experience, I've noticed that even BLO can blotch cherry. About the only thing that doesn't blotch is shellac. So, I'd just use an amber or blonde shellac straight on the raw wood. I find the 'grain pop' to be equivalent to using BLO. Then I'd top with some kind of varnish. If you use a dewaxed shellac, you can use pretty much anything on top of it.

You'll might find that cherry ply is more expensive ft-for-ft than solid.

No. What I'm asking is, if cherry plywood is not structurally sound enough for a desktop, then what is? The answer would be the base, and cherry veneer could be glued to it.

Anyway, my main question is what's a good alternative to finishing cherry without using a varinsh.

I'm glad you mentioned blotching. I was under the impression that only a stain would blotch. I didn't know oil like BLO or tung oil could.

"Blotching" when talking about an oil finish is a bit strong...Pigment based stains really blotch wood.

Oil on the other hand... will the latent grain jump out and show up? YES.

Is that bad ? Depends on how you see it... I for one like the difference that the oil imparts. In reality that's all we are doing when we say we want to "pop" the grain. Latent grain "pops" more.

In my finishing classes, I show everyone a piece of striped mahogany plywood that has been "oiled" with BLO on one half and the other half with 100% pure tung oil.

Both halves where then sealed with super blond shellac... NO one has ever been able to tell me which half was tung oil and which half was BLO...

Scott is an expert and I am not, so I'll 100% defer to his experience.

I'll just share my experience. I just completed a cherry bench which I finished with an oil/varnish blend (about 25% polyurethane, 30-40% BLO, 30-40% Mineral spirits). What I noticed is that parts of the top had darker, unattractive patches; and that was despite sanding through 320 pretty thoroughly. I perceive a difference between grain pop and color blotching with pine, cherry, birch, and poplar.

Anyway, take it for what it's worth: about 2cents!!! ;)

Both boiled linseed oil and pure tung oil should be though of as colorants, not finishes. Neither provides any real water or watervapor protection and neither provides and abrasion resistance. However, either will tend to "pop" the grain. BLO is slightly more amber and will get more amber over time. Pure tung oil is initially less amber and more slowly get amber over time. In reality, as Scott has said, there is little appearence difference between them.

I suggest you do a little experimenting using scrap from your project. Try a couple of things and see which you like. I most often will use either the BLO or an amber shellac as the first coat. Then apply a couple of coats of a non-poly varnish. For a desktop, a phenolic resin varnish like Waterlox Original Gloss or Satin or Behlen's Rockhard provide a nice looking and very hard and durable surface. The darker color of both these finishes is very nice on darker wood like cherry.

As to your construction, an option is to use cherry veneer plywood but rather than just veneering the edges, glue on a 1" to 2" solid cherry wood boarder around the perimeter. I like this better than veneer as its been my experience the veneer tends to begin to separate when it's used on an edge that gets heavy use like dragging your hands or arm over it. The solid wood boarder also presents a little visual interest to the tabletop.

Wow! Thanks for the great comments. I finished a small piece of cherry trim for an inlay of a flower table with "Nordic Oil," and it really accented the difference in colors. I think part is heart wood and the other sap wood. I'm too new at this to really know. But I like it and my wife likes it. So if that is oil blotching, I'll take it. I want everyone to know it's real wood, not a picture on vinyl.

The cherry cabinets in my kitchen (original from the builder) are very even, and look almost fake. Like it's stain on top of shellac. It's ok, but I don't really want the manufactured look.

I think I'm leaning toward dewaxed shellac on oil. And later, if it's wearing too much, I can put varnish on top of that.

As far as the wood goes, I really like the solid wood edging idea. I can build stuff from wood, but I'm not a wood worker. I don't have tools to make really straight cuts, and can't make any joins. I was just going to ask the wood store to cut a piece 4 foot by 3 foot (the first two cuts are free). But I'll see what's available for edging (sounds a lot nicer than veneer).

Solid wood edging is great, but beware that for it to look good, you really should have access to a router and either some long clamps or an air brad/pin nailer (for the glueup).

You'll want the wood edging to be slightly wider than the plywood and then you flush trim it with the router. It is possible to true on the edging with sandpaper and/or a plane, but with plywood, you have to be VERY careful not to go thru the veneer.

If you make the solid wood edging extend beneath the bottom face of the ply, then it will add considerable rigidity to the desk, and make it appear thicker and beefier.

With the solid wood, you'll need to miter the corners for a neat appearance.

You might consider weighing the work involved with doing a solid plank top. You could have your store joint/plane the boards so they're ready for glueup.