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I've read that some of you use this technique to fill in cracks/voids in your turnings. I'd like to adapt it to filling in engraving done with my cnc router. So far my tests have not been encouraging.
My method is to spray the engraving with shellac, let dry, fill engraving with fine grounds, and drip in super thin CA glue. My biggest issue is the CA glue washing out the grounds, particularly where the engraving isn't very deep. Is there a way to help avoid this. Is there a better method?
Bruce, I assume you are going to sand or otherwise level the grounds after application. My best advice is to not use CA glue. I mix grounds with some Titebond and tamp it in to the void/recess with a small dowel, skewer or chopstick, leaving it proud of the surface. Of course, I am turning so it gets turned off, and I can fill any small holes with lacquer or CA, but usually I get a pretty good surface. You can thin the mixture with just a tad of water, but be aware that even with the Titebond, it can stain the surrounding area, so your idea for shellac is a wise move.
Correct me if this is wrong, but I've read several places not to use CA where it's to be permanent. Apparently, it has a usable life and will fail after x number of years. Inlace granules worked fine with CA glues, my experience only goes back several years though, and they may fall out some time in the future.
For permanent fills or repairs the recommendation is to use epoxy. Problem is, epoxy is more troubled with having to mix. Then you always mix too little or not enough.
John, which Titebond do you use.
I tried CA glue mixed with coffee grounds with negative results. I now MIX coffee grounds with 5 min epoxy and fill the voids a little proud of the surface then sand level when cured.
I have both Titebond III and the yellow (original?) on my bench and it depends on the color of the wood. III looks a bit better with darker woods.
Bruce, you know me and my love of coffee.
I have a jar of Folgers instant my wife bought over 30 years ago. I crush the crystals and mix it with 5 minute epoxy. It has worked well for me.
It heartening to find a use for that instant coffee. I won't drink it!
Thanks, I will try using Titebond, I don't have any epoxy on hand. For some reason I thought the CA was the way to go, I even bought the super thin just for this. Where do you buy the turquoise looking granules? I'd like to give that a try too.
If CA has a usable life and will fail afte x- years. I better watch out with my pens... because they are going on 10 years as a finish. I'm sure they are going to fall apart any day now.
The small twin tubes of epoxy are great for small uses--even lasts after opening for months. Epoxy is fast, permanent, nonstaining and best of all. Sands about like wood--CA can be like granite to level out. Leaves highspots and takes too much effort. I mix ingredients such as coffee, turquois, sawdust ect. to a paste and apply with a tounge depressor. The 5 min. and even 1 minute have you back to turning very quickly.
I use coffee ground and CA, the reason I don’t use epoxy is that you can use only a small amount of other material mixed in with the epoxy or else it will not work/harden anymore.
With coffee ground and CA I can fill a void totally with the material, be it metal powders or coffee ground or other, I use masking tape to prevent the CA from flowing out/through, you can then also tape the ground down and fill with CA, or as I often do slowly flood the CA in and push the material down with a spatula (ice cream stick) or just my fingers, and sometimes drop some more material on top of the CA moistened material.
Oh yes like Jon Lanier mentions, my more than 15 year old pieces with CA in them must have falling apart by now :eek:, though nobody has mentioned it yet or did LOML that her bowl now has a split in it :rolleyes:
Here is a picture of a 24 inch Willow burl that did have the wood open up as it dried the contorted grain, so after a couple of years (2??) I then filled all the splits with fine coffee ground and CA, 10 years by now and still fine :)
Attachment 342951
Also a Siberian Elm bowl that I filled both the rim and the side wall with coffee ground and CA.
Attachment 342952
If you are wanting dark try weldwood plastic resin glue and mix with what ever for coloring, that stuff is tuff.
I appreciate the speed that CA glue offers, and the cost effectiveness that coffee grounds offer.
But I get the best results using two-part epoxy, slow drying, with a drop of Transtint black in it. Once I bit the bullet and bought a small 2oz life-time supply of black TT, I never looked back.
I dislike the look of voids that are large and bulked with a solid filler. They look grainy. Tinted epoxy has a cleaner look. You require so little dye, it does not in the slightest affect the dry time or curing of the adhesive.
If you really love CA, you can add the TT to that too.
I have no experience with filling (yet), but, I did stumble across a blog with lots of good info including coffee/epoxy filling: linky
Mike
Having used epoxy, it does work well, however, Titebond works just as well and no rushing, no need for quick cleanup, and your tools can be wiped clean with water. And, it looks just as good IMO. I have not tried, but I am reasonably certain that Transtint can be added to the mix if desired as the glue is water soluble when still wet.
I can't answer your coffee grounds filling question (I don't like filled cracks in turnings and they sometimes separate after a few seasons of wood movement) but for future reference on applying thin CA glue: Have you used the capillary tips that can be added to the CA glue bottle? Woodworking places sell them or google "ca glue applicator tips". These give more control and let you apply the tiniest drop exactly where you want it. I use them mostly to apply thin CA to small areas in wood prone to tearout.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Page
How big are the voids you want to fill in the engraving? Do you want the fill to be flush with the surface or just darker to highlight the engraving? When I texture turnings it usually makes very shallow impressions in the wood. With light wood I use a dark walnut grain filler then remove it on the surface and leave it in the texture marks. If I don't want to sand, I apply finish (either before or after turning), then rub with a cloth before the filler dries completely. If needed, I brush the filler into the texture with a small glue/acid brush with the fibers cut off short so they will be stiffer.
JKJ