No Instructions included!

First, let me thank all of you who responded to my first post about newly acquired planes. I've got the Stanley to make passable shavings, but haven't tackled an insert for the sole of the wooden bodied transitional.
I've really enjoyed reading responses, especially for us novices, and I have really learned a lot. I can only agree that this slope is indeed extremely slippery! My chisels are getting sharper, my joints are getting better, the shop is less dusty, andmuch quieter! I've used a scraper for the first time--wow!
I would like to acquire and learn to use a spokeshave. Unfortunately, old tools are not readily available it seems, around here, or at least I've not been too successful. Any suggestions on what to get? I have in mind making a bow saw so will be doing outside curves first. The range runs from a green Kunz at Woodcraft, to Veritas, Lie-Nielsen to the Boggs.
I also just got a small bowsaw(to learn to use and to be a pattern since I had no idea what they were like). NO INSTRUCTIONS on how to tension it. I've done what seems logical, but wondered if there were any special procedures. Should the tension be released when not in use? How much tension--until I can't turn it anymore?
Thanks for your help.

Mark:

Good question about the bowsaw, I too could use some advice. I built one under Dave Anderson's long distance tutelage, and often wonder if I'm using it correctly, and/or whether it's limitations are inherent to its contruction or my own technique (the design itself is as fine as any I've seen).

For instance, regardless of how much tension I apply, I find it works better as a pull saw than a push saw. Is this even correct?

I have the Kunz flat spokeshave, and an even cheaper Taiwanese curved sole model I bought at my local Woodworker's Warehouse. They get the job done, but I have a strong suspicion that I'm really missing out on what spokeshaves are all about.

I've heard mostly positive comments about the Veritas spokeshave, and mostly drool-inducing raves about the one by Boggs. I have no direct experience in either of these, but if your budget allows, I believe buying something better than the Kunz would serve you well in the long term.

First on bowsaws-- Depending on which way you have oriented the teeth on the blade the saw will cut better on the push or pull stroke. Generally though it will always go better on the pull stroke, just like a Japanese style saw. Tensioning the blade is one of those things you can only learn by experience though tighter is always better. The blade should make a high sound when plucked like a musical instrument string. Tight joinery at the mortise and tenon joint is also very important in helping to tension the blade and make the saw reliable. You should almost have to force the tenon into the mortise. Blade width is also a factor with 1/4" being about a minimum except for really small saws used for coping where a coping saw blade is often desirable.

Now spokeshaves-- My perverse opinion is that Kunz shaves are colored their bright green much in the manner that bright and flourescent colors are used as a warning. Stay away from them! Without a huge amount of work and tuning they will stay in the bottom of your tool pile or be found wherever you threw them in disgust. Right now the best bargain around is the Lee Valley/Veritas shave at $40. It come almost ready to use out of the box (a little honing is useful) and performs very well. The Stanley #51 or its equivalent the #151 Record are good buys for a high angle shave though they both require tuning and shimming the mouth to tighten it up. The L-N shaves are excellent like all L-N tools, but are a bit on the pricey side. For about $65 you can make both a full sized and a mini shave with Hoch irons by going to Jon Gunterman's websire and downloading a set of very clear instructions (www.shavings.net). This is a lot of fun and allows you to customize the shave shape to your needs and particular comfort. A shave can be made in only a few hours or make two in a day. Warning-- spoke shaves are their own slippery slope. Right now I think I have about a dozen and a half of various styles, manufacturers, and types. On the other hand, they are inexpensive and I probably only have about $300 invested in all of my shaves including the antiques. A final note, don't buy an antique as your first shave, you need experience first with something which will work without a lot of futzing, repair, and adjustment.