Spindle turner interested in making some bowls.

My primary woodworking hobby is making furniture. To support that endeavor I have had a lathe of some sort for about 15 years. I would describe myself as spindle turner of intermediate skill. Lately I have decided that I would like to do some faceplate turning. I would like to solicit some advice here on what additional tools I should add to my arsenal to get this going. I have as a short term goal to turn some salad bowls with an eye to small (5x8ish) hollow forms. I have an assortment of spindle turning tools including a SRG, ½” continental spindle gouge, ¼” spindle gouge, a diamond parting tool and a few skews of various sizes. I have a Supernova2 chuck with 2” and 1” jaws. I have a Jet 1642 2hp lathe that came with a 6” faceplate. I have been looking at Thompson gouges and am torn on a couple of things. First what size gouge to get 3/8, 1/2 or 5/8? Then U or V flute. Also should I get a scraper or two and if so what type? Should I get a smaller faceplate, what size? Any other recommendations that I haven’t thought to ask for would also be appreciated. Thanks.


Willie

Since you already have a scroll chuck [SN2] you should get you a bowl gouge and go for it! Put a blank between centers like you would on a spindle, then turn a tenon on one end to fit your SN2 chuck............as soon as you have the tenon to fit the chuck, then put it in the chuck, tighten down and have a go at the other side with a bowl gouge.

I would recommend however, that you get with an experienced turner....look up a local turning club and see how it is done......with your experience already, you should adapt fairly easily........learn to ride the bevel and you will do fine.

You're pretty well set Willie. I recommend a half inch bowl gouge and a 1 1/2 in round nose scraper for starters. I use a oneway master cut gouge and a record scraper.They were the first tools I bought 12 years ago and they still have plenty of life left in them after hundreds of bowls. V or U? That is a matter of personal preference. It would really be a good idea for you to stop in on a local turning chapter and get some hands on use of the different types before you buy.
Good luck,
Tom

Willie, I wrote to Doug Thompson last year with the exact same question. Here is his response:

Brian,
The first bowl gouge is a 1/2V then learn to turn a bowl beginning to end with the gouge, remember we have tool collectors and we have turners... one bowl gouge is all you need to turn a bowl if you keep it in your hands long enough to learn how to use it. Call any afternoon and i will guide you on what to purchase and what not to purchase... I don't do this for a living so there is no need to push tools.


Thank you,
doug
440-241-6360

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Originally Posted by willie sobat

Any other recommendations that I haven’t thought to ask for would also be appreciated. Thanks Willie

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Quick run now! while you still have a bank account...

Vortex is sucking in another one... (hoo-ha-haaa.....)

I would recommend a 1/2" V flute bowl gouge sharpened with a modified fingernail, Irish or Ellsworth grind at about 60-65 degrees and a round nose 1" scraper ground at about 70 degrees for your first bowl turning tools. As far as hollowing tools go, there are many, and choosing among them is somewhat dependent on what you are intending to do. You have everything else you need. I might also suggest some Jumbo Jaws or a Modern Longworth Chuck for your chuck so you can turn the bowl around and finish the bottom. I would also advise some research and/or hands-on guidance from a knowledgeable turner as mistakes in faceplate turning can be more spectacular than in spindle turning. You are about to enter a new world of fun and creativity on your lathe!! Happy Turning!

Welcome to turning! And you just might end up with a secondary woodworking interest...flatwork!;) And it's just beginning!:D:D

Thank you for all the responses. I think I will go with the 1/2" V gouge and a round nose scraper.

And Willie, NEVER use your SRG to round out a side grain blank. It is for spindle work only. The other tools may find a use for 'faceplate' work, but not that one. I would also question the Continental gouge if it fits in the handle with a tang.

In addition to or instead of the cole jaws/Longworth chuck you might want to look into vacuum chucks or simple jamb chucking. Also, doughnut chucks are relatively easy to make and can work well for flat topped bowls or even natural edge bowls if you incorporate an internal jamb to hold it off the backing plate.

Just One question here, what is the lowest spindle speed of your Lathe, it should be less than 500RPM IMO, 2or 3 hundred would be better, 600 or faster is TOO fast for bowl turning in sizes better than 9" or 10" and that is also IMO :)

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Originally Posted by Leo Van Der Loo

Just One question here, what is the lowest spindle speed of your Lathe, it should be less than 500RPM IMO, 2or 3 hundred would be better, 600 or faster is TOO fast for bowl turning in sizes better than 9" or 10" and that is also IMO :)

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Leo, the Op said he had a Jet 1642 - 2hp that is variable speed down to about 50rpm and up to about 3200rpm in two ranges. I have the 1 1/2hp model and it has turned whatever i needed up to about 14"

Whoops, didn't catch that Thom :o, so he should be all set to start bowl turning, with a good gouge and some practice :)

[QUOTE=Thom Sturgill;2028488]And Willie, NEVER use your SRG to round out a side grain blank. It is for spindle work only. The other tools may find a use for 'faceplate' work, but not that one. I would also question the Continental gouge if it fits in the handle with a tang.

Thanks for the advice Thom. I do not use the SRG or the continental gouge for faceplate work. I have turned some side grain items to include stool seat blanks (12" or so) using home made scrapers only. I have learned to have a healthy respect for the potential for accidents while working on the lathe. I once launched a 36" x 8" quarter section of soaking wet red oak that had no shaping, other than riving done to it prior to mounting it between spindles. I turned the lathe on without checking the speed first (my old lathe did not have a soft start). It spun up to about 2500 rpm rather quickly. The lathe started shaking and bouncing then spit the piece into the air. Fortunately for me some sort of gyroscopic physics caused it to pause in mid-flight allowing me to jump back. It felt like a seen from the "Matrix," as I simultaneously leapt and arched backwards to avoid the impact. I came out of it without a scratch, other than the loss of and a new appreciation of using proper safety procedures with the lathe.