requested information on the criss cross

The two pieces of my criss cross are 3/4 thick, 2 1/4 wide and 18 inches long. I made pins out of bolts. They were long enough to cut the heads and threads off. My pins are 5/16th in dia. and it is because I had them on hand. Any size will work. I made them out of cheap bolts and I waxed them with paste floor wax. Brass will work but Stainless steel bolts even better.

Drill a hole in the center and lay out a 1/12 diameter circle in one end. The other end get a 2 1/4 circle laid out. Drill a hole at the center of the 1 1/2 in mark. All holes should be drilled with a drill press if possible to keep perpendicularity or do the best you can. The bottom of the chop at the end of the criss cross will stick out 3/8 inch more than the chop at the top. It has to do with fulcrum points and what clamps what, kind of like a titer tot. If you don't understand just have faith and you will when it is done.

The pin hole in the leg and chop is 10 1/2 inches down from the top of the bench and 3/4 from the front edge. I would strongly advise you to make a proto type as I did and you will see how it works. I glued some 2 x4 to make the leg and chop the gtove is 1 1/2 deep. You will understand how to radius the criss crosses. Actually the criss crosses were 1/12 wide with 3/4 radius cut on both at both ends for the proto type. Build out of\cheap stuff before starting for real.

Attachment 453597 Attachment 453598 Attachment 453599

When you get this far put a clamp about 2 1/2 higher and clamp a board in your vise to see how it works.

I will give more information latter.

The best way to drill the holes in the leg and chop is to do it on a drill press. If the drill bit is not long enough one should be able to buy a longer drill bit at a hardware store or big box. It is important that the hole go straight through. Trying to come in from both sides is asking for trouble because no matter how careful one is there will be a misalignment. If you get a longer drill you can finish drilling it with a hand drill, your hole will act like a drill bushing and it the hole will guide the drill bit the rest of the way through.

The pins needs to be a slip fit so you can push it through with your finger. You may need to chuck up the bolt in the drill press and use emery cloth to polish the bolt down. Over time and with the working action of the vise the pins tend to start to slip out. To stop this just put in a wood screw so that the point engages the pin. I did the screw from the back side of the leg so it wouldn't be seen. it is hid by putting it on the inside of the chop. And from the top on the criss cross. Pull the pin and the whole chop is free.

If you go with the one from Bench Crafted, all this work will be the same and if it is a retro than you have a lot more work ahead. I felt a lot more comfortable making the leg for the actual bench after building the prototype.

Thanks for posting Tom. This is really interesting and your tips will come in very handy. Much appreciated.

I was considering doing a home made CC myself and did some preliminary research on the components necessary. I ended up buying a BM off the Classifieds here so I went no further with it. Interested in following your progress, especially what you will use as the screw.

I posted on another's post and was asked for more details and to do a separate post so his post wouldn't be taken over in a different direction. The bench with the leg vise is already existing completion, and has been in use for about 5 years.
Here are pictures of my bench concerning the leg vise. These pictures are what started the request for more information.

Attachment 453653Attachment 453654 Attachment 453659 Attachment 453660

Here are pictures of the screw. I have another,

Attachment 453655 wrong picture. Attachment 453656Attachment 453657 Attachment 453658

Thank you Tom.

Thank you Tom. I will certainly mock this up when I get that far. I’m considering attempting to cut my own wood screw as well. Without doing any calculations, I would think that the wood threads would be the weal point in m system, not the cross.

Tom
Thank you for the info and nice bench! Looks like you have every work holding option covered.

Just curious are the cabinets underneath the bench, not full height for holdfasts.
I've been really eyeing the shaker design for a someday build, but love my holdfasts.

Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge Tom.

jtk

The Pin holes for the criss cross are 10 1/2 inches down from the top and the screw is 8 inches down for the top. It reason I suggest building a proto type is you will find that the the chop will move in and out, but the height of the chop doesn't change it remains parallel. I pictured an old vise screw and that is because it is what is used on my bench.

Since it moves in a straight line I think that a tail vise screw ( $42.50) from Lee Valley will work fine. I would drill a hole through the leg the same diameter as the screw, I would drill a little larger hole through the chop. The screw through the leg would keep the screw straight. The large nut could be morticed in but it could also be reversed and just screwed to the leg. I think it will work but it would be worth it to try it with even a wooden dowel when making the proto type.

So now, not counting wood. a tail vise screw(45.50) a shoulder vise screw for about 35.00, a dollars worth of bolts, and directions from Woodsmith #50 for instructions on how to make a wagon vise and it is a far cry from what other options will cost. It is a hobby and so what if one might have to turn a vise handle a few more times.

Michael, not sure what you mean about height for holdfasts. The skirting around the bench is held in place with rare earth magnets. At my age it is yo hard to bend down and get something that has dropped on the floor and rolled under the bench. Also I don't have to clean under the bench.

There are 4 stretchers on the bench, two low and 2 at the top both are about 4 inches thick. and the top is in the 4 inch thick maybe a little thicker so there is room for my holdfasts. I have a friend make them for me. Made out of tire irons. Good steel in a tire iron. There is about 8 inches before you get to the cabinets. The cabinets do not have a top or bottom on them , So if I have to I an move around what is in a drawer. The just set on the lower stretcher. The is also a middle stretcher down low and there are actually 5 cabinets. and the color is as close as I could get to the antique bench in Hancock, Ma.

Some more pictures of the bench.

Attachment 453741 Attachment 453742 Attachment 453744 Attachment 453745 Attachment 453743 Attachment 453746