Thinking of making infill jointer plane...have questions...

So I've been inticed by the beauty and potential cost savings of making my own jointer infill plane.

See I really don't need a jointer plane right now, but want one. Looked at the LV BUJ and thought about getting an old Stanley #7 or #8 user, but neither of those options has been enough to move me to get one.

Where I work I've a full model shop with full prototype capabilities, usable materials and accommodating friends. At my desk I've full design capabilties in 3d design at my desk via CATIA V5.

So the questions I have (for now) are:

I've seen some infills with no cap iron and a fairly thick blade. This appeals to me as I'm not fond of setting cap irons (bad experience with a modern stanley). What are the "rules" for infills sans cap irons?

Second is what is a good bed/blade angle for a jointer? I'd want to use it on both face and edge planing. I know the LV BUJ comes with a lower angle blade, but I don't know if that is significant. I'm thinking to just use a york pitch and be done with it, maybe making a second blade with a suitable back bevel for less cooperative wood.

3rd is from my limited research most infills bed the iron on the wooden rear tote which is pinned to the sides. Something about this doesn't sit right with me and makes me want to incoporate a steel bed pinned to the sides. Someone talk me out of this with some good logic.

Thanks
bob

#1 If you have not made an infill plane before you do not want to start with a jointer. There is a lot to learn about plane making and materials are pricey so I would start with a small smoother first and then ease into the jointer.

#2 as long as you utilize a .250 tk. iron there really is no need for a cap iron. The cap irons real purpose is to make a thin iron behave like a thick iron. Make sure the lever cap contacts the back of the iron as tightly as a cap iron would otherwise it will chatter when used.

#3 Standard pitch (45 degrees) should work well on a jointer plane.

#4 If you use material as thick as .250 for the sole the back edge of the plane iron will bed against the area on the sole that is cut at an angle. Some install what is called an antichatter block on the sole, this is typical of planes made with thinner sole material. Either way the back of the iron should bed against the metal area of the sole and the wooden infill. The wooden infill will dampen and absorb the stress of the cutting action.

When all these factors come together correctly you not only have something that is beautiful to look at, you have something that also works beautifully.



Ron