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Hardware Help Needed!
I am building a cutting table for my wife's quilting addiction. I'm kind of an advanced beginner, so I am far from knowing all the answers! The cabinet part is not a problem. Where I'm running into trouble is figuring out the best way to handle the drop leaves on each side. They must fold down to the cabinet sides when she isn't using them, but need to be perfectly flush and flat with no gaps when she opens the leaf. I'm really struggling with the hinge system to allow the top to operate properly. I've found plenty of hinges that would work fine if it wasn't for the fact that they need to be flat, flush and no gap.
Each leaf will be about 42" x 28", with the hinges on the 42" side. I'm planning on putting drop down legs on the end to hold the leaf up when she is using it.
I'd appreciate any links, input, etc. to get me on the right track. Here's a picture of my wife's friend's table. She paid a fortune for it and it's just particle board/melamine junk. The top on my wife's will be similar, but the cabinet will be much nicer.
Attachment 371146
Thanks!
Scott
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Scott, you may consider a pin-type hinge (clevis pin or knife hinge ?) in the apron instead of attaching to the top itself. You would also have to figure a way for the leaf to remain up, such as a sliding brace. I could send you a couple sets of clevis pins with holding clips I got for a job that never really panned out if you decide to go that way. ..Or you may consider something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Flush-Hinges-...+leaf+hardware
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Thanks, Yonak! I saw the Rockler hinges you linked to, but the reviews on the Rockler site are less than stellar. I need this to stand up to some fairly robust usage when my wife is using it for cutting and I'm not sure these would handle much use. I'm intrigued by the pin-type hinge idea. The hinges I've looked at so far all leave a gap between the top and leaf when up, and that won't work. Do you have any ideas/links for clevis pin or knife hinges you would recommend?
Thanks!
Scott
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Since you need it to be robust, I suggest you use standard hinges and use a drop leaf support to provide the rigidity needed. You can shop make a pull out type support, or you can go with something like this: https://www.wwhardware.com/drop-leaf-support-m100. The point with either approach is to get support out near the far edge of the leaf. I'd probably use two supports on each leaf to make it really solid.
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Paul,
There will be legs on the far end of each leaf to provide support. The problem I've had with standard hinges is getting them to close completely flush with no gap between the leaf and top of the cabinet. I need some sort of hinge that will swing out a bit to give clearance for the edges and then close up tightly when it is fully open. Maybe such a thing doesn't exist, but I know they make (very) expensive cutting tables that have that functionality. Maybe I need to track one down and see how they hinge it.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Scott
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Do a search on Rule Joint Hinges. You should find something suitable. There are even router bits available to make the joint.
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Disclaimer: I have no actual experience with construction of drop-leaf tables or quilting, but...
I did have a couple thoughts that might be relevant. First is "ruler joint". (Named after the hinge used in folding rulers, I believe.) It's the traditional way to avoid gaps (showing) with drop leaves. Second is a cutting mat would easily bridge any small gaps and probably provide a better working surface too.
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I'll look into that. Thanks!
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She does use a cutting mat, but she said it's important for the joint to be tight because she also uses the table top to tape down something or other as she layers and pins it all. Thanks for the suggestion.
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I built this quilting bench for a Quilter near me a few years ago.
Attachment 371160
Attachment 371161
Attachment 371162
The drop leafs are mounted with continuous piano hinges as are the leaf supports you can see under the table. The guy I made this one for wanted to use the leaf as a drafting table so there are two supports under the drop leaf to hold it flat and at 40 degrees. The leaf folds down against the back side when he isn't using it to save floor space. You could easily put a leaf on each side if you wanted a really big table top. This one is 48 x 96 when open and is surfaced with Formica.
The hinges were installed on the underside of the top with the two pieces butted tight to each other so there was no gap between sections when the table was in the up position.
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That's great, Lee! It is very similar to what my wife wants. I was afraid that the piano hinges would leave a gap when the leaf is up.
Thanks!
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Just make sure you install them with the pieces tight together and when they are used the tops will end up the way they were when you mounted the hinges. If you make supports like I did, the fold flat against the side of the cabinet when not being used. Make sure they are installed tight against the shelf so the tops end up being held tight together.
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Hi Scott. Sorry, I can't find any photos of my suggestion on-line or in my photos. Simply, the pin or knife hinge is strategically placed in the aprons of the leaf (the apron of the leaf is extended beyond the edge of the leaf to reach the hinge position in the table apron) and the table so, when the leaf is swung up, the apron of the leaf meets the bottom of the table and the two tops line up. Getting the edges to line up tight is a matter of placing the fulcrum in the right place. Some sort of mechanism to hold the leaf up would have to be devised, such as a slide-out brace. Here's a sketch :
Attachment 371173
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Great advice! Have you found that the the swing out support is solid enough? I was thinking of putting two fold down legs at the end of each leaf. but that may be overkill and harder for my wife to manipulate than the swing out ones.
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