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I like to mill my door sills from the bottom if they hang out past the foundation. One its gives a nice thick edge at the front. don't need the finish on the bottom to be a nice ether . Getting hard to find good white oak these days for wide work too.
here is how i do it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbNw...jN9DmVvK2ZAWXA
Interesting technique Jack. I like to use QS material, set the angle with a planer angle sled, finish up on the jointer. I come from above. If the nose needs to be thicker, I glue it on. Problem I've found is keeping the sill flat after taking out the necessary material to make the pitch regardless of technique. Turns out wood moves! What wall thickness is that threshold for? Looks wide. 2X8 framing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Quinn
I do not want any glue joints in a wood sill Peter . that a good piece of old growth and very stable. Running a sill in a sled on the planer is the common way and have done that on many doors but this one I wanted a fat front edge(not glue) on the out side edge and at the threshold 5/8 above inside floor finish. sill has to span a 5.5" thick water table in front of a 2x6 wall so the sill is almost 14" wide. did get 5 dregs slop though.
5.5" thick water table? Got a picture of that? Is that a molding or some sort of masonry item? I hear you on the no glue, I've just found few boards that will tolerate having 60% of their thickness removed and stay flat or not cup/twist/bow. I've taken wide boards, cut the nose, folded it on itself, glue it on with PU, hard to tell its been glued at all. Course I work like a mule.....easiest way to get down the hill its the path I'm taking. I used to make a lot of wide nosings at the last job, interior stuff, dado from below, often plain sawn white oak, some as wide as 14", almost always went crazy, but those were being glued and screwed down. Looks like you have better wood!