Need Help Identifying old Disston

It's a 12" backsaw with a angled back, and split nuts.

http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps85430e2d.jpg

http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse1c0c292.jpg

http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps2c40bc4d.jpg

I'd like to restore it, but could use some pointers on repairing the cracks int he handle, and cleaning up the rust. I've seen a few people soak in vinegar. I do have some saw files and a Stanley 42X, but so far no saw vise. Any ideas on the odd curve in the spine?

As best as I can tell it's from 1871-1875
http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/medv2.html


Thanks

Interesting find. I am finding that I have a saw problem...

The Disstonian Institute website (http://www.disstonianinstitute.com) is the place to find out which saw you have. The medallion, for starters, seems to date your saw to 1871-75.
The bent back is probably the result of somebody trying to retension the blade by repeatedly whacking the back with a hammer or stick. This actually sometimes works, but it obviously isn't best practice.

Jonathan
Your have nailed the age. This is a model no 4 nd would otherwise be a lovely saw but judging from your pictures this example has had too much abuse and neglect.

Since your saw has split nuts which are devilishly difficult to remove even if you would own a split screwdriver I would suggest that you start by washing the plate with soap and warm water followed by light scraping with a window scraper so that you get a better picture of the condition of the saw plate. If it is as bad as I think it is, i. e. deeply pitted, then the plate will never do any work again because it will fracture. But if you find that the steel is OK then you would need to either protect the handle or find a way to remove it before continuing rs to ration. Don't try to clean the saw plate with oils or lubricants, because the handle will soak it up and then you'll have a discoloured handle to deal with.
The back is an issue but finding out if the plate is OK would be my first step.

Thanks for the identification of the saw. I bought it this summer from a antique shop/barn sale with some other tools. I'll give the window scraper a try. Is there an issue with sanding? I've seen a crew split nut screwdrivers made from spade bits, do the screws usually break when trying to remove them?

Jonathan,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't indicate your location, where do you call home.

Sanding tends to remove metal. That plate looks like it will need all the metal it has if it has enough left.

One of the problems with split nuts starts when they are made. Some of the shafts soldered to the head. Then many were sanded down to be flush with the wood. This distorts the shaft a bit where it comes through the nut. Then after a century of use, dirt and moisture they may be stuck in place.

jtk

Jonathan, my point is that before you decide what to do with this saw you need to determine the condition of the plate. And as Jim says, sanding will remove metal. Although that might sound like a quicker solution, everything you do this saw will be of no use if the saw plate is too far gone. I restore a lot of saws, most which are in a condition most Americans would pass on, and I have been able to turn good users out of most saws. But there is a limit and if your tooth line and plate would display deep pitting in large areas, it would not work as a saw anymore.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jim Koepke

Jonathan,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't indicate your location, where do you call home.

Sanding tends to remove metal. That plate looks like it will need all the metal it has if it has enough left.

One of the problems with split nuts starts when they are made. Some of the shafts soldered to the head. Then many were sanded down to be flush with the wood. This distorts the shaft a bit where it comes through the nut. Then after a century of use, dirt and moisture they may be stuck in place.

jtk

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Jim,

I'm from southern Maine. I do have the option of using some evaporust on it, but I'd like to get the handle off before doing that. If this isn't a particularly valuable saw, I don't mind if it's not restored to mint condition.

Do these sort of bits work ok for taking the split nuts off? One of those in a hand brace would give quite a bit of torque.

https://orepass.wordpress.com/2014/0...it-nut-driver/

This is another one I found, but a bit harder to make.

http://www.blackburntools.com/new-to...ner/index.html

I made a split nut driver by filing a notch in the head of an ordinary, cheap, large flat head screw driver from the hardware store. You shouldn't need a lot of torque to remove the nuts, and you certainly don't want to put a lot of torque on to them when you replace them, as this can easily snap the thin threaded posts.

This is not what you ask for, but I would think about a kit from Ron Bontz and put together as close as I could a replica of the saw, maybe even reusing saw nuts.
Tools for Working Wood has an inexpensive split nut driver. I have one. Making a handle would be fun.
I think that would be blast.

I took a closer look at the spine, and it looks like it was hammered on in some attempt at repair. There is also a wave in the saw plate. Is it possible to remove the spine on these?

Yes it is possible to remove the spine in some cases. Matt Cianci has video "Supertune a Backsaw" that explains how to do it. Pop Woodworking has the video.

If the spine is bent, a replacement can be had.
If the plate is also bent, it may not be cost effective to rehab this saw.

Is the plate still straight? It looks like there's plenty of depth remaining...