Help cut mdf and sticker at the same time.

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10-10-2014, 2:11 PM
mariano peña ascanio

Help cut mdf and sticker at the same time.

Hello people.

Anyone know any trick to cut mdf with sticker.

My problem is the alignment.
hit bottom sticker of mdf, so the laser does not burn sticker, but it is very difficult to align.

Thank you very much.
10-10-2014, 5:35 PM
Kevin Gregerson

Quote:

Originally Posted by mariano peña ascanio

Hello people.

Anyone know any trick to cut mdf with sticker.

My problem is the alignment.
hit bottom sticker of mdf, so the laser does not burn sticker, but it is very difficult to align.

Thank you very much.

Lots an lots of trial and error and it won't be very consistent from one board to another board.
10-10-2014, 6:44 PM
Joe Pelonio

I do that all the time with "stickers" on acrylic on my 12"x24" laser. . It will not burn the sticker if you apply transfer tape on top and mist with water before cutting unless it's thick and you have to go slow or do multiple passes. For alignment, are you doing more than one at a time? Most of mine have been 10-20 depending on size, on a 12x24" sheet. When printing the stickers I have a 11.5"x23.5" vector line around them and invisible vector lines around each sticker. After printing, cut with straight edge on the 11.5"x23.5 printed line. Then use the same file and line to cut the wood after making sure the 12x24 piece is masking taped around the edges to make sure it doesn't move. Remove the 11.5"x23.5 piece of wood and apply the stickers exactly to the edges you cut on that printed line. Then insert back into the frame left in the laser, and cut them out after making the invisible cut lines visible again on the print file. Comes out perfect. You could do the same process with just one.
10-10-2014, 7:11 PM
Andrew Holloway

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Pelonio

I do that all the time with "stickers" on acrylic on my 12"x24" laser. . It will not burn the sticker if you apply transfer tape on top and mist with water before cutting unless it's thick and you have to go slow or do multiple passes. For alignment, are you doing more than one at a time? Most of mine have been 10-20 depending on size, on a 12x24" sheet. When printing the stickers I have a 11.5"x23.5" vector line around them and invisible vector lines around each sticker. After printing, cut with straight edge on the 11.5"x23.5 printed line. Then use the same file and line to cut the wood after making sure the 12x24 piece is masking taped around the edges to make sure it doesn't move. Remove the 11.5"x23.5 piece of wood and apply the stickers exactly to the edges you cut on that printed line. Then insert back into the frame left in the laser, and cut them out after making the invisible cut lines visible again on the print file. Comes out perfect. You could do the same process with just one.

What sort of stickers are you using? I have a low tack transfer tape and it still rips the stickers when I remove it...
10-11-2014, 12:10 AM
Joe Pelonio

Inkjet (HP Designjet, made for outdoor durable signs) printed on adhesive film (like vinyl but polyester). If you are using a paper based sticker, then you might have to do a clear laminate over it first.

http://www8.hp.com/h20195/v2/GetPDF....80-7809EEE.pdf
10-11-2014, 7:22 AM
Bill George

And a "sticker" looks like ? Are we talking about some sort of decorative printing stuck on some MDF or sign board?
10-11-2014, 8:50 AM
Joe Pelonio

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill George

And a "sticker" looks like ? Are we talking about some sort of decorative printing stuck on some MDF or sign board?

Some examples for me are logos for a professional sports team, cut around the logo to mount on lockers along with name plate, company logos cut to mount on office door plaques, and apartment numbers to mount on the carports at large apartment buildings. Almost always 1/8" or 1/4" acrylic.