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I`ve been trying to get an even sheen on a spalted maple bench I've made but in some of the soft areas it just keeps soaking up the vanish. This is after 7-8 coats.
Now some areas are too glossy and the softer areas are still dull.
Was thinking of simply giving it a few coats of wax, figuring the wax won't soak in.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for any and all replies.
Hi Brian, sounds like your not sanding between coats or at least not enough anyway, what type of varnish are you using and how heavy are you putting it on?
I am using slightly thinned Helsman spar varnish but it could be any other finish like poly or oil.
It's the areas that are a bit punky that are soaking it all up.
Question really is if wax will give the bench a more even sheen throughout.
No, wax will not work - at least not for a long time.
You have several options:
1) just keep applying varnish. It will eventually harden enough to build a film on even the punky parts.
2) Seal the areas with shellac. It dries faster and sands quicker than varnish.
3) Seal the areas with cyanoacrylate (super) glue. Under a clear finish, you won't notice it.
In my experience, 3 is the best, but I've also done 1 when I'm cheap, and 2 when I'm cheap and impatient.
Briaan,
Is this an exterior bench?
If not, spar varnish is MUCH softer than interior varnishes. As stated, sanding between coats (although on spar this is a bit more difficult, due to softness) to level the surface will eventually fill the softer areas. You can finish the soft areas with extra coats, just make sure once it's filled and smooth you give everything a final coat ofr two.t
No, it's an interior bench.
I'll keep applying the varnish.
I'm curious as to why wax wouldn't work.
Brian, wax is not a filler for one thing and it's application is not for the purpose of filling, it is to be put on in thin well rubbed coats. Each coat consist of only a few microns of build if done properly. As Prashun points out, it is not permanent either, granted it wont sink into the wood, but it does not build or level or uniform the sheen out. Plus it will interfere with any other varnish or other coatings you may wish to apply later if not completely removed. In other words it's a "last" application product if used at all, not an "in-between" application material - it's a final application material like compounds or polishes that is used to finesse the final appearance of the object[s] coated, ok? Next time around, do yourself a favor and use an interior varnish like behlens rockhard alkyd or any other alkyd varnish, with these you can sand the next day with no problems and they will fill in punk fast as compared to slow dry spars. Again as with any varnish though, each coat should be allowed to dry for as long as possible to avoid having problems with long term through drying ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Penning
Hope this helps,
SAM
Sheldon,
I suspect you just mis-spoke.. as I'm sure you know that Behlens Rockhard Table top varnish is an Phenolic resin/linseed oil varnish and not an alkyd resin varnish. I too agree that the OP would be much better served using a harder varnish; especialyl when compared to poly spar varnish.
LOL, high my freind Scott ------------------ well the alkyd part of the finish is the linseed oil just like all alkyd fatty acids used in all varnishes that contain resins. Be it coconut oil, safflower oil, flax [linseed],tung, castor, soybean, oiticica, perilla, sunflower, etc., the oils are saponified and the fatty acids are taken and added to the glycerol and polybasic or polyhydric acids to make the different alkyd resins of the coatings industry. This is known as modification and not just a mixture of hot oil and phenolic ok? :) John , head chemist for Behlens 50-70's and i were good friends, i don't remeber him ever saying anything about rock hard being a phenol modified and oil "extended" varnish?? Normally the groups of modified varnish coatings range from: drying oil modified/non-drying oil modified/ natural resin modified/ urea modified/ phenol modified/ and as a last type - phenol modified and oil extended. Oil extended varnishes would give a much longer dry than a phenol modified fatty oil/acid would. Though for general understanding if you wish to call it a phenol resin and linseed oil finish i'm not going to argue with you or anyone about it :) And thanks for your imput, always a pleasure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Holmes
SAM
Thanks for all the input. So far I've really liked using the spar finish. I thin it 20-25% and apply it like a wiping varnish.
When I wetsand the final coat with 600 grit the result is quite nice. All my clients just love the soft feel plus you get a pretty tough finish imo.
Brian, i did not mean that spar varnishes were bad per se', Just not the best choice for your project at hand as to build and fast drying. A coat or two of rock hard or similiar 4 hour fast dry product, would have dried faster and stopped the problem of continued saturation much better than the spar would have is all. Either is capable of giving a nice feel when wet sanded as are most other finishes also. That has more to do with smoothing / conditioning the surface than what the coating make up is ok? So i'll leave it up to you as to what you find you like best, just keep in mind that a quicker drying product will overcome like situations in the future :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Penning