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Hi,
Does anyone know of a brand of wood stove that uses a 3 inch chimney pipe like a pellet stove? I'm building a new shop and will have probably 7 years+ of wood to burn, but I don't want the large stove pipe hole in the roof or the wall.
Thanks for any ideas
I built a stove from a 30 gallon oil drum. The drum was vertical to take up less space in that tiny shop. I used galvanized 2x3" downspout for stovepipe! It worked but it was "fussy". After one season of part time use it would back draft because it was caked with creosote. When clogged it was more like 1.5''x 2.5".
I went with 5" dia. round and I'd consider that the minimum.
Some ice fishing stoves have 3"or 4" but they are taken apart often and you can knock the clogs out.
Dave, I, too, would be concerned about a flu that small on a regular wood burning stove. Unless you have a special situation, I don't think it would make much difference in the long run - 3" flu vs 5' or 6" - once everything is installed.
I've had one of these installed in my shop for probably 10 years now. http://www.vogelzang.com/cast-iron-stoves.htm It's the standard boxwood. It'll overheat my shop, if I let it. No problems with the draft or the flu. One of the things I iike is that I don't have to worry very much about the length of wood it'll handle. Even though the Rancher is tempting in terms of space needed, there's more hassel with making sure the wood will fit the stove.
Oh, BTW, during the summer months, setting a simple bench over the stove turns that area into another workspace. During the winter I keep a big kettle on it for hot water.
Hope this helps, a bit.
Lee in NC
I purchased the double barrel kit from Vogelzang because my neighbor had one that kept his shop toasty all Winter long. I took delivery of the unit, bought the barrels, spent a lot of time on the Internet trying to find the best way to line the fire bed and anything else I needed to know. Just as a precaution I called my insurance company prior to building the kit. Lucky I did because they told me that if I had any type of wood burning device in any of my buildings they would cancel my insurance. The kit is still in my basement and the Hot Dawg Modine forced air natural gas unit is heating my pole barn.
I would not use a 3 inch chimney for a wood stove, I would go with a minimum of 6 inch or larger. If the stove is close to the wall I would go through the wall. You should also do some serious research prior to setting up your wood burning stove. The number of wood stove fires in Michigan is pretty high.
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the responses. They caused me to check with the ins. co. about covering a wood stove. They will cover a commercially made stove that is installed according to the directions and some code they are going to send me.
The smallest stove pipe I've been able to find is a 6 inch pipe on a Harman stove (at least it was at a Harman dealer anyway). I was just wondering if any had a 3 inch pipe like the pellet stoves to, since in essence, they burn wood.
Pellet and corn stoves are an entirely different animal from your standard wood burning stove. The creosote issue does not exist therefore a smaller pipe can be used. Don't know about the pellet stoves but a corn burner can be vented directly through the wall and does not have to have the pipe that goes upward for several feet. The corn burner smoke smells like roasting corn and is a pleasant smell.
Since you asked for ideas, here's mine: Forget the 3 inch pipe! As someone who heats both my home and my shop with wood, for many years I might add, I wouldn't consider anything less than 6" for the pipe. Other than the 3 inch difference in the diameter of the hole through the wall or the ceiling/roof you're not going to lose any space to speak of. There are some excellent products out there now that very safe to use. Get the best pipe and best hardware to surround and support the pipe where it goes through the wall or the ceiling/roof that you afford.
There's hardware and pipe available to go through walls, ceilings and roof that's adjustable to any roof pitch and that requires very little clearance between the pipe and surrounding wood. These pieces are up to code in most areas, too. Feel free to PM me for details about this hardware if you have any questions.
For sealing the flashing/shroud on either a metal or shingle roof (NOT the pipe itself) there's a product called "Through The Roof". It comes in both cans and tubes like caulk. Looks like clear silicone but is WAY better for roof applications.
Good luck with your decision.
And inspected by the governing authority whatever you do or your insurance will never cover any loss to fire regardless of the ignition source.
I don't know why an insurance company would have an issue with a wood burning stove. The bottom line is that any heating device has the potential to cause a fire, and therefore should be installed strictly according to code and inspected where applicable. I'm pretty sure our insurance companies wouldn't be happy if we cobbled together a gas furnace either.
Peter Q,
The argument that I keep hearing is the modern generation has not been raised around wood burning appliances and in Michigan have demonstrated their lack of experience, knowledge and in some case the lack of giving a darn. I am amazed at the number of homes and trailers burnt in Michigan by carelessness or lack of knowledge. The insurance companies seem to have taken this into account in my area. There is a lot of code violations as well. You would not believe the electric wiring that I have seen in buildings that I have been in. Quite a few commercial buildings in my area have burned due to faulty wiring according to the local media.
David, resign yourself to the idea of a 6" (or 8") flue piercing your roof.
I installed my shop flue straight through the roof, and have never had a problem. Find a spot which allows for as straight a flue as possible. The less bends, the better the draft, and easier cleaning!
I burn a small, single-door Timberline air-tight stove in the shop, and that lil !#&%*! will run ya outta there! In rural Missouri, I consider heating with wood to be the *green* thing to do. But, do not burn green wood! lol
I've heated my home AND shop with wood for 25 years! Free wood is a very attractive alternative compared to inefficient/expensive electric baseboard heat. I figure the energy bucks I save all winter will (almost) allow me to run the A/C all summer for *FREE*!
I have to admit that since I live in FL, I do not have a reason to install a wood burning stove in my workshop.
That being said, it seems to me that as long as you have good, paid up life insurance, go for it.
I installed a Direct Vent LP Gas heater in my wood shop and laser shop due to back drafting. The laser vents outside and the Woodshop dust collection can vent outside the main shop or recirculate.
AL