Porter Cable Dovetail jig problem cutting half blind dovetails

I just received my new Porter Cable 4216 jig. My first test cut was a half blind dovetail. After getting the router depth correct, the joint was great. However the boards were not even if stood up like a drawer would be. There was about a 1/16" difference in the side and front. I cut several times getting the spacing of the pins correct and adjusting the side stop, the boards were uneven on each cut. I made sure the boards were against the stop. What am I doing wrong?????

Thanks for your help

Ron

Isn't the stop adjustable? If you haven't go online and download and print advanced manual.

Bruce, Yes the stop is adjustable, if you are familiar with this jig you probably know the set back is 1/2''. When I clamp a board in place and measure the set back it is less than 1/2''. It touches the back of the spacer first (the part toward the back of the jig) and keeps the board from obtaining the 1/2'' setback which causes the boards to not be flush when assembled. It appears to be manufactured correctly. It is such a curved part that I can not determine if it is not square. I tried moving it from left to right in the adjustment slot with the same result. Am I going to have to file the back down some so spacing is correct?? I might call Porter Cable tomorrow and see what they say. Thanks for your comment and I welcome comments from anyone.

I don't have the Porter Cable jig, but it appears to be very similar to the Rockler dovetail jig that I have. On the left and right side are plastic stops that wrap around the base plate. They are adjusted by loosening screws. Make sure when you adjust them for pin spacing that you check to make sure they are square to the front and top of the base plate. Since they are plastic it is possible to get them angled slightly so that the horizontal stop is rotated slightly, which moves the vertical stop out of position. If each one is out of position by 1/32, it wil give you the 1/16th error. I have to remove the finger plate in order to check the stops for proper perpendicular alignment.

I have the same jig and the same problem. In desperation, I moved to the right side (as I face the jig) and had no problems. I have played with it on and off and still cannot get satisfactory results from the left side. My guess is that there is something wrong with the stop on the left, but after measuring it every way I can think of have experienced no joy.

If you want to continue to use.
With 2 sticks exactly the same width, measure & prove the translational offset.
Next use a feeler for the work that goes against that stop. Displace the work x the total error. A lousy solution, but one nevertheless.

I always found the stops the week spot on what is otherwise a very good dovetail jig

There was a thread on this awhile ago. I do not remember off hand what the solution was but I did it with mine and it worked perfectly. I will look tomorrow when I am in the shop and see if I had printed it out. If I recall it was a simple solution. I want to say without looking it was to put a washer between the knob and the offset stop.

George at WWGOA (Woodworkers Guild of America) has a very detailed video series on this jig. I had a little trouble also. After watching the videos, I now can usually do a good job. Worth the watch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike Gresham

I have the same jig and the same problem. In desperation, I moved to the right side (as I face the jig) and had no problems. I have played with it on and off and still cannot get satisfactory results from the left side. My guess is that there is something wrong with the stop on the left, but after measuring it every way I can think of have experienced no joy.

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I would suggest removing the two stops and measuring the offset on each with a dial (digital) caliper. The two stops should be exact mirror images dimensionaly. Since the right side works, the left side offset is probably wrong, which should be apparent with the measurements.

Thanks to everyone how replied. I discovered that the stop was incorrect. I was able to determine
the correct spacing and use a micrometer to set the spacing on each cut, with good results.
thanks again. I will watch the video series by George. Thanks

Ronald, I had the same problem...I used a feeler gauge to correct the spacing. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...setup-question

Very poor process control by either PC or their offset stop supplier.