How to "finish" the finish?

I've looked through a lot of posts in Sawmill Creek but am still a little confused. I've stained a curio cabinet I built (pics to come when finished) and put two coats of shellac on it. The shellac was wiped on with a pad. It looks OK but would like it to have the beautiful type of finish I've seen on projects others have posted. Waterlox seems to be one of the things that many have in common. I've sees posts where Waterlox is applied over the shellac. This would be applied by hand also. Any thoughts or suggestions on using Waterlox over the shellac, applied by hand? What about just another coat of shellac?

Evening Ralph.

I don't know for sure what you are lookin' for as a final finish, but, if you want to take the time, you can do the following:

Put on a total of six coats of shellac.
Between each coat, use 12000 micro mesh with oil as a lubricant. I used Butcherblock oil.

Hand rub, in a circular motion till the mesh doesn't drag any more. Wipe the oil off and apply your next coat of shellac.

I used this method on a cradle and the panels look like you could fall into the finish, just like GOOD quality, old furniture did.

Bruce

Ralph

I too have just finished a cherry curio cabinet and finished it in the manor you are asking.



I first wipped one coat of Zinssers bulls eye shellac seal coat deluted with denatured alcohol on cherry. Sanded with 0000 steel wool and then wiped on 3 coats of full strengh orginial waterlox sealer while sanding with the 0000 steel wool between coats. Result was very pleasing, finish is smooth with a semi shine. As a experment I waxed as section that would not be see with Johnson floor wax and could not detect any noticeable to the finish other then all the pores are now smooth as glass.

You can apply Waterlox on top of shellac. It doesn't even have to be dewaxed shellac. Just level off the shellac with 320 grit, and wipe on as many coats of the Waterlox as you like. If protection is the aim, you should think about using 4-6 coats of the Waterlox. You don't need to sand between each coat, but I usually do sand a bit between about every other coat, again using 320 grit paper.

Or, you can apply more shellac. I usually find shellac is easiest to apply if it is diluted to about 1 1/2 to 2 lb. cut. (Zinsser liquid shellac is usually 3 lb. cut for the Amber or Clear and the dewaxed shellac SealCoat is 2 lb. cut.) You don't need to sand between coats since each coat melts into the coats below, though it is a good idea if you have any gross defects you would like to deal with before moving on. When you have built the shellac to the level you want it, you can rub it out to any level of sheen you want. I typically start by leveling any defects with 600 grit (400 grit if there are larger defects), then sand with about 1200 grit. From there what I use depends on how glossy I want it. I usually shift to rotten stone for a very nice gloss finish, and use fine pumice for a more satin finish. I apply these with a felt pad lubricated with parafin oil (or light mineral oil), cleaning off any oil with naptha at the end (and to check progress.)

Thank you for the suggestions. I'm going to try them on some scrap before trying on the cabinet for my own understanding of the techniques and differences they may offer.

I guess my concern with using the steel wool or the sandpaper is what it might do to the stain. Seems like too heavy of a touch would remove the stain? Too light a touch and essentially does no smoothing. Perhaps I do not understand?

As I read and re-read these posts and others, perhaps I need a thicker shellac base obtained by applying many (4-6?) coats where it has been cut to 1-1/2#.

You don't need to get carried away with sanding--just level off dust nibs and other gross defects. It shouldn't be too hard to avoid cutting through the shellac into the stain, especially with 320 grit which isn't terribly agressive. Your practice on scrap should give you the light touch you want. (If you should cut through its not the end of the world, you can touch it up fairly well since the stain will only "take" on the cut through part and not darken the surrounding area which still has finish on it. Perhaps not perfect, but likely very hard to detect. Still best not to cut through.)