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I've settled on making a desk very similar to this. I am buying metal legs, but I need to build the top and it looks pretty thick maybe 2-3" thick. I dont want to make it completely solid as that would be insanely heavy. I am going to make this about 8ft wide and 30-36" deep.
How would you make it? I was thinking about using a torsion box design with 3/4" thick material all around. Is there a better way?
https://i.imgur.com/GWLcDKA.jpg
A torsion box would be a good way to go. But the skins don't need to be 3/4" thick. You could use 1/2" and it will still be strong. You can even use 1/4", and it will be strong. The slight drawback with 1/4" is that it sounds thin when you tap it. Or you can go 1/2" for the top surface, and 1/4" for the bottom. That keeps the weight in check, but still is a strong torsion box.
If you do make it a torsion box, you might want to get leveling feet on the sawhorses. A torsion box is so rigid that it will not twist to get all its feet on the floor. If your floor is not flat, or the sawhorses are little twisted, or the torsion box is a little twisted, the desk will teeter-totter. That's where the leveling feet help.
There is a different approach to the desk top. Use just one layer of 3/4" plywood, with edgebanding that's as tall as you want -- 2", 3", whatever.
Compared to the torsion box approach, the single-layer approach is not as stiff, but still strong enough for most desks. It is also less work to build.
I had a solid core door(heavy) that I used for mine. Added maple banding at 2" wide. I think you do it with a standard (hollow core) door. Might check with surplus. Mine was free from work when they were remodeling offices.
That is a pretty good idea. Do you think a hollow core will be strong enough and not sag with a heavy monitor deadcenter?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Coates
A hollow core door is a torsion box. they are quite strong. I think i would skin the top with 1/4 ply or relatively thick veneer of choice. the skin is pretty thin. or get one of the light weight solid core door slabs. the slabs themselves are usually fairly inexpensive.
Adam's idea of 1/4 inch top would give a more dent free surface(?). I would then edge band them both, By covering you could also use a used door. Replace a not so nice in the house. (If you have any-- ha ha).
So a hollow core door becomes your pre-made torsion box and you just add a surface and edging.
Put the leveling devices between the top and the horses. You will need only one or two.