Longest lasting cedar outdoor finish

Usually there is a pattern of things that folks post to the net that help a user figure a "best" way to do things. Run a search on painting cedar and no two opinions seem to agree.

The wedding arbor, which will turn to a garden arbor, is getting far enough along that I need some serious painting ideas. It will be gloss white. There is no choice on that. Also it will probably never see paint again once it hits the flower bed. So I want the longest term durability.

Some say use a preservative first, then prime and paint. Primer and paint being oil based seem to be the only point of agreement. Many also say acrlic. I have no idea what preservatives they mean. I am to the point of following past suggestions from a couple of folk here to use an epoxy base. But I'm not greatly impressed with how West System adheres to the cedar. I don't know about other epoxies. Playing around Titebond seems to give slightly better with grain adhesion. The epoxy is great on end grain, but for finishing most end grain is hidden.

Has anyone got any long term experience with paint on cedar that is good?

David

...before I visit the "real paint store", I'm thinking an exterior oil primer and acrylic exterior white. No paint is forever, so some time down the line it's re-paint. But these new acrylics are lasting longer than ever. My guys still recommend an oil base primer opposed to water base. Exterior paint is, hands down, latex. If you have a Benjamin Moore dealer around, I'd check out his line of paints for this project, David.

Dave, given the fact that Cedar is one of the most "rot" resistant woods, I would and have passed on useing a preservative.

The new acryilics that are out now will do an excellant job of protecting your arbor, and will last a long while. Little or no maintanance

Be sure to protect it from the bottom up first. Many make the mistake of setting their posts in concrete or tamp the soil down tight around them. By doing it that way the water has no place to go, and will "wick" up into the cedar and encourage the rotting process. I would reccomend you put some washed rock on the bottom of the hole and then use some 5/8 minus rock around the poles. When that is tamped in, it will be solid as can be and the water will have a p;ace to go.

David,

I was told that acrylic latex was the best choice, Benjamin Moore was also the brand recommended. This came from a close relative in the chemical business, whose company supplied the paint industry with colorants and driers.
I too, did gloss white on a gate/arbor project. The proof to me is that it is now on it's 7th year with no peeling etc. -Oh, and I did not use primer.
I took care to avoid water pooling by chamfering, slanting etc. That's critical. The posts are PT and the rest is cedar. I copied the design from a book cover that I saw and just had to reproduce.

It was a very enjoyable process, figuring everything out as I went. Alas, we moved from the house and I had to say good-bye. -Steve

Interesting... Many say that acrylic latex is "as good as" or "best". Others swear by oil. This entry way has endured so well that I am really rethinking the oil thing. Thanks for the pic. I haven't found a local Benjamin Moore yet, but I haven't checked our entire area. We do have a Sherwin Williams. Many companies have their strong areas. I'll keep looking for Benjamin Moore.

Thanks guys

David

David,

From a painter who isn't weighed down by years of doing it "old school," you really can't beat an all-acrylic system.

Since you have a Sherwin-Williams, I would prime the cedar with their Woodscapes Solid Color Exterior Latex stain. This is an excellent stain that seals in the tannin. Then I would use 2 coats of Sherwin-Williams Duration (Exterior Acrylic). It's a thick, heavy-bodied "coating" (Sherwin won't even call it a paint), that will remain flexible through the seasons, unlike an oil-based product which will become hard and inflexible (even the oil primers do this). And what happens when you put something inflexible on something that moves (cedar)?? Done carefully this way, you won't have to touch this thing for upwards of 20 years. And, according to the label on the Duration, you could even skip the primer, just make sure the wood is freshly scuff-sanded.

Just a painter's thoughts....

Jason, I had thought about the inflexibility of the paint vs the cedar. On the movement chart, cedar is a real mover. It moves more than most hardwoods and softwoods usually move less. :confused: I've allowed for movement in construction, but not in finish... until now.

That is exactly the kind of info I was after! I'm assuming the Duration comes in white. ??

Thanks a bunch!

David

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Originally Posted by Jason Roehl

David,

From a painter who isn't weighed down by years of doing it "old school," you really can't beat an all-acrylic system.

Since you have a Sherwin-Williams, I would prime the cedar with their Woodscapes Solid Color Exterior Latex stain. This is an excellent stain that seals in the tannin. Then I would use 2 coats of Sherwin-Williams Duration (Exterior Acrylic). It's a thick, heavy-bodied "coating" (Sherwin won't even call it a paint), that will remain flexible through the seasons, unlike an oil-based product which will become hard and inflexible (even the oil primers do this). And what happens when you put something inflexible on something that moves (cedar)?? Done carefully this way, you won't have to touch this thing for upwards of 20 years. And, according to the label on the Duration, you could even skip the primer, just make sure the wood is freshly scuff-sanded.

Just a painter's thoughts....

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Originally Posted by David Rose

I've allowed for movement in construction, but not in finish... until now.

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This is where people usually get tripped up on exterior finishes.

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That is exactly the kind of info I was after! I'm assuming the Duration comes in white. ??

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Absolutely. I don't recall which sheens it comes in, but I know satin is one of them, and then there is at least either a gloss or a semi-gloss.

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Thanks a bunch!

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Anytime...:cool: