Purchased New Table Saw

The Unisaw went to a new home in Virginia and will have a rehomed life with a great friend. So it was time to look for a primary table saw to supplement the Inca 259. Lots of members here had many ideas no brands to buy and even those to refuse purchasing. After lots of reading, I made a decision. After deciding, we went through Muncy, PA last Thursday with a friend to get him a Grizzly band saw and while on the East Coast picked up this saw in New Castle, DE. I didn't have much time to look at accessories when in Delaware, but they are sending the catalog. Kept this one bare-bone options. Someone warned woodworkers that putting a lot of options on one of these K-3 models gets expensive.

The directions to set-up the saw leave lots to be desired, but with several videos plus a few different woodworkers showing how they put together their new saws, it went together. It seems the Germans must use the words front, back, left, right, etc. differently than we use them. If anyone ever purchases a Hammer K-3 Winner, I have all the supplemental directions and videos to assist. All of the directions and videos make it possible to assemble, but none of them show everything.

After assembly, this saw runs like a dream. Had it working hard two hours after assembly. Cuts hard wood like it's butter. It cuts well, but if any folks have recommendations for better blades, that would be appreciated. Called one Canadian company concerning a dado head, but with shipping, it costs nearly $500.

Noticed in the spring catalog that the price jumped $400 from the sale price at the woodworking shows.Attachment 260738Attachment 260739Attachment 260740Attachment 260741Attachment 260742Attachment 260743

Congrats, looks like a great saw! Does the mobile base work well? Right tilt? You are probably used to that after the Uni.

Rich, gorgeous saw...congrats...tell us, why did you upgrade from UNI? Any cuts in particular you had in mind for the Hammer?

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Originally Posted by Rich Riddle

Kept this one bare-bone options. Someone warned woodworkers that putting a lot of options on one of these K-3 models gets expensive.

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I looked real hard at the K3 Winner but with delivery and the options I wanted it was close to $7k....

Doug,

Indeed it tilts right like the old Unisaw does. The mobile base works great. It fits exactly. They don't give you 1 mm extra of rod for the base to attach to the wheels with the collars. Moves around very easily. I like that aspect of the saw much better than the Unisaw mobile base.

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Originally Posted by Will Blick

Rich, gorgeous saw...congrats...tell us, why did you upgrade from UNI? Any cuts in particular you had in mind for the Hammer?

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Will,

I do a lot of shorter cuts and this is the 48" x 48" model. I like the slider option for cutting straight pieces of wood from less than straight raw materials. It's also nice to have far fewer jigs and sleds to accomplish cuts. The crosscut sled, miter sled, adjustable sled, etc. all went with the Unisaw. Today I did some long rip cuts including several at 14' and simply had to lock the slider in place to accomplish it.

I do like the Biesemeyer fence better than the fence with the Hammer, much better. Haven't quite figured out how to tilt right and move the fence to the left when ripping a long board but that will likely come with experience.

I have nearly the same saw and love it!

You can get a 6" forrest dado king for it and it runs great. Not sure its listed on their site but you can just call forrest and get one.

Tenyru makes blades for the 30mm arbor and pin holes. I got my from amazon sure there are many other purchase options out there.

Make some ZCI for it right away.

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Originally Posted by C Scott McDonald

I have nearly the same saw and love it!

You can get a 6" forrest dado king for it and it runs great. Not sure its listed on their site but you can just call forrest and get one.

Tenyru makes blades for the 30mm arbor and pin holes. I got my from amazon sure there are many other purchase options out there.

Make some ZCI for it right away.

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This unit included a zero clearance insert, so that one can be used as a template for the others. Thanks for blade recommendations.

Hi Rich.... so you can rip 48" max with slider? Same, 48" with crosscut? If so, I consider that ideal mix of usability and footprint. And gosh, u are soo right about all the sleds required for Cabinet saw versatility .... if I ever upgrade my TS, that will surely be my TS. I assume 240V and 40amp service?

Congrats Rich, you will really enjoy your new saw. I'll second the opinion on the Forrest dado for your saw, cuts super nice. I like the silent power blades right from Felder, I have had great luck with the combination blade and the rip blade, very high quality IMO, and not super high on price.

As far as a dado set I have the Frued Stack Dado and have used it quite a bit in all kinds of wood and laminate. It comes with a set of stainless steel shim washers that makes it possible to tighten or loosen a dado groove to match any thickness of wood. Really am well satisfied with the splinter free cross cuts that it makes in veneered plywood. Good luck with your saw! Steve

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Originally Posted by Will Blick

Hi Rich.... so you can rip 48" max with slider? Same, 48" with crosscut? If so, I consider that ideal mix of usability and footprint. And gosh, u are soo right about all the sleds required for Cabinet saw versatility .... if I ever upgrade my TS, that will surely be my TS. I assume 240V and 40amp service?

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The K3 is 4Hp, 220V (AKA 240V). 20 Amp is all you need. This was a factor, though not major, in my decision to go with the K3. My shop has numerous 20A 220V outlets. No rewiring needed, I have finished walls. The Grizzly and Minimax require 30 Amp as they are 5 HP.

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Originally Posted by Will Blick

Hi Rich.... so you can rip 48" max with slider? Same, 48" with crosscut? If so, I consider that ideal mix of usability and footprint. And gosh, u are soo right about all the sleds required for Cabinet saw versatility .... if I ever upgrade my TS, that will surely be my TS. I assume 240V and 40amp service?

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Will,

This saw does have the 48" maximum slider cut and that was what was needed. The tables to the right of the blade are 48" as well. As Todd said, yo only need a 20 amp 220 VAC circuit to run this saw and it's not a slow/soft start motor. I have a 30 amp circuit to the shop as well but wired a 20 amp 220 VAC plug to the machine and run it on the 20 amp circuit as well. This morning I made some cuts in seconds that would have required half an hour on the Unisaw. It's a joy to use.