punky maple bowl blank

Is there any way to safely turn a bowl blank that is punky in the middle. I cut a maple that fell in my yard and there was considerable spalting near the base where it fell from decay. I have a few blanks that are solid wood around the bark area but in the middle of the area that will be removed to make the bowl it is all punky and really soft. Normally I wold put this between centers and turn the outside area and form a tenon on the base. Then turn around and chuck it up and remove the center. I do not think the soft middle will hold on the lathe. Any tricks around this or is it firewood? Thanks, John

Sounds like this one is too far gone. If it is just a bit too soft, people talk about soaking in dilute elmers glue though I have never tried it myself. Spalting makes for some beautiful patterns but you have to catch it at just the right time or it gets too soft and very difficult to get a clean cut. Would suggest you take the more solid portions and use them for smaller pieces.

Generally I don't mess with it and it hits the firewood pile. If the spot isn't to big and you don't think it goes all the way down into the bowl I have mixed up a tube of epoxy then mix it with Denatured Alcohol to the consistantsy of milk. I saturate the area with it and let dry for 24 hrs. It will hold pretty well with a faceplate and 2" sheet metal screws in every hole. If I don't think it will hold it is gone.

Ok, thanks for the responses. It is to far in my estimation to take the risk. I have the whole tree to deal with so this piece even though it has some great spalting will not be a bowl. The hard section I will band saw off and use to make a handle so not a complete waste. Thanks again, John

John,
I have had some luck with using Minwax Wood Hardener as long as the wood is not too punky (whatever that means). Rough turn the outside shape, saturate it with the wood hardener, let dry a couple of days and turn the inside. If the final wall thickness is not too thick, it will penetrate all the way through. The last one I did worked fine until I cut through the wall (a little too thin), but that was not the wood's fault.

I have been using a product caledl Rot Doctor(http://www.rotdoctor.com/) to stabilize punky wood. It's main use is in the repair of exposed wood such a boat decks and trim. It penetrates very deeply. It is essentially a very thin two part epoxy. When it sets it is turn-able and sand-able.
Use with caution as it is really nasty smelling, and somewhat expensive. I have saved many a spaulted maple or elm with blank this stuff. I rough turn it like Dave then apply let cure and re-turn.

John, I have been working with some extremely spalted wood right now. I detailed my own process here, along with some pics of the (still unfinished) bowls : http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...y-spalted-bowl