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I recently purchased a Delta turret radial arm saw that I am cleaning up for use. I need to replace the table with new wood and I was wondering what would be better, MDF or particle board. The MDF is thicker (3/4) versus the particle board (1/2), but would there really be a difference in durability and flatness? Any information would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
I recommend at least two layers of plywood 3/4" and a 1/4" sacrificial hardboard top that you can replace as needed. This allows you to have a longer table without concern for significant sag. If your table gets too big, you will need to beef this up with steel bars or something similar. I would be hesitant to cantilever two foot plus of just 3/4" MDF or especially 1/2" particle board
The "Mr. Sawdust" table is a lot of work but if you plan to use your RAS for more than basic crosscuts you will want a non-flexing, dead flat table. The guys who do all the fancy cuts with their RAS swear by that table design. I modified the Mr. Sawdust design for mine, but I still use 2 layers of mdf. Like the previous poster said - you can always remove the top layer and also having a couple layers lets you use a factory edge in the back and square it up as your fence line.
Two layers of mdf for sure. I have 1/4" sacrificial mdf top that I can replace easily. Mine is a Mr Sawdust design. I have a 33-890.
The OEM table top on my RAS was 3/4" MDF. I replaced it with 3/4" MDF after 15-20 years of use. I would not use particle board for this at all.
+1 on previous comments.
Mine is two layers of MDF or 3/4" Particle board (can't remember which), laminated together, and topped by a sacrificial top of waxed Masonite, with an also sacrificial strip of Masonite painted red for safety. I use it for cross cuts only.
.Attachment 330582
I recovered my 14" Delta turret RAS with a good quality plywood and sacrificial top of hard Masonite. I was concerned about overall stiffness so ordered a thicker than 3/4 inch plywood, at least a full inch. (Sorry, I'm laid up at the moment and can't get to the shop to measure the thickness.) This setup seems perfectly satisfactory. Using a single thick sheet avoids problems of mating two layers of 3/4 plywood. The leftover plywood comes in handy for other projects.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Pennock
Two layers of 3/4" baltic birch with the bars epoxied in, and 1/4" baltic birch for sacrificial top layer made per guidelines in the Mr Sawdust book. Very strong and flat Do it right the first time and you shouldn't have to worry about it again.
My work benches and outfeed / assembly table are all going to be 2 layers of 3/4" plywood and 3/16" hardboard.
As for mt RAS, a Craftsman 10", I find the saw to be limited by wood thickness now and it is only 1" MDF. Going with more layers would limit it even more
Attachment 330601
Thanks for all of the replies. I was torn between the RAS or putting up the money for a new sliding miter saw; however the I picked up the RAS for less than $50.
I like the idea of a sacrificial top, now it will be time to go find some material.
I also used 3/4 plywood topped with 1/4 Masonite. I glued the fence to the table too. My saw was set up to clamp it but I think it's a lot better to glue it. I could always rip it off on the table saw but it's been on there about 20 years and will probably be on their another 20.
Plywood is a lot stronger than MDF. In my experience, MDF sags like particle board. But a RAS table should have nearly no load most of the times so maybe MDF would be OK. But two layers would cut capacity on my saw.
If you're only going to use it for accurate 90 degree cuts, like I do mine, put in a replaceable zero clearance insert. Mine has always been 2 layers of 3/4 birch plywood screwed together. Even fastening stops to the top layer with nails or screws, it still lasts more years than I keep up with.