Does anyone use this walrus oil Furniture butter on turned bowls?
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Does anyone use this walrus oil Furniture butter on turned bowls?
Well, I have never heard of walrus oil. Walnut oil maybe? Is there a brand name?
robo hippy
Walrus Oil is the brand name , Amazon sells it. Read the blubber- blather.
All of a sudden there are new finishes based on YouTube influencers and internet forum people who started new little companies. No I have not tried any of them.I apply my finishes off the lathe.
What do you find to work best for bowls?
Question is somewhat similar to "what is the best vehicle to have". Like pretty well everything it depends on what your requirements are. Is the bowl a utility type bowl such as a salad bowl, is it an art bowl that will just sit on a shelf, must it have a gloss finish, are you going to get wound up about "food-safe", do you wan to be able to repair and renew the finish easily, and the list goes on.
I personally like a film finish, don't use the bowls other than display, like a bit of gloss so my typical finish is Lee Valley's Polymerized Tung Oil or even MinWax Tung Oil (which probably has little real tung oil). After the finish has well-cured (not just dry), I buff the bowls with the Beall system. These products are certainly not the only games in town for this type of finish - lacquer, shellac, polyurethane and others can be used. You will find each finish has its unique characteristics so you have to do some research and yes, trial and error!
I'd say the Walrus product referenced falls into the easy to apply and maintain being an oil with wax although it is supposed to cure.
I have used it, i think I got it from Rockler, i personally liked the way it brought out the wood grain.Attachment 503657 Sorry about the image up side down.
I use Quick Dry Minwax Poly. 3 thin coats applied with a folded cloth rag. Each coat is sanded with a foam backed 320 grit pad. This makes for a thin and easy to wipe down finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by James H Hunter
Attachment 503674
I did look it up. It is coconut oil. No clue as to how well that will dry or cure and what type of surface protection it gives. Bee's wax offers almost no protection against water soaking in. If you drop some water on it and wipe it up immediately, there is no spot. If it sits for a minute, there is a water spot. Too soft to offer any real protection. Doctor's Woodshop walnut oil and carnuba wax for me. If it is a daily use bowl, for me, I won't put anything on my bowls that I can't eat straight out of the can. The solvents and dryers with the wipe on poly finishes still leave some residue. Some people who are hypersensitive to them can still react, even if the FDA says that the remaining materials are 'inert'.
robo hippy
I use coconut oil in my baked granola. It comes as a solid unless it's over 75 degrees. They it's a liquid. I hope it never cures because I eat it every morning!
I bought a small container of Walrus Oil at a fair in Maine last summer. A vendor was touting it for use on cutting boards. Had not used it until yesterday. Had turned a cherry bowl about 7 inches in diameter. After sanding I used Yorkshire grit and then Acks polishing paste. Decided to try the Walrus Oil to see if it would enhance the sheen. It did and I like the feel of the finish it leaves. Didn't see any color change to the bowl but the polishing grit and paste had already darkened the cherry a bit.
Dave, I am wondering if the Acks polishing paste would prevent the oil from soaking in. Does anyone know if coconut oil will polymerize? I know it is good cooking oil and has a high smoke temperature.
robo hippy
Reed,
Good question and beyond my expertise! The product I have is labeled "Walrus Oil" and says it's "Made with Beeswax, Coconut oil, Pure Mineral Oil and Vitamin E. Apply thin layer of way, dry for 15 minutes, then buff with a rag." It's a cake wax and buffs to a moderately high sheen. With only 15 minutes before buffing I'm not sure there's much soaking going on with or without the Acks. Cheers