I'm curious what everybody uses to sharpen their kitchen knives. I'm ashamed to say it but my are in need of serious work. Any suggestions?
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I'm curious what everybody uses to sharpen their kitchen knives. I'm ashamed to say it but my are in need of serious work. Any suggestions?
Here is a guided steel jig that is quite popular. Though I don't use one, it is discussed and recommended by some on a blade forum. See the caution about not using it for "fine edge elite knives or Japanese knives". This is not a sharpener as much as an edge keeper. The two exclusions are likely because the edge angle on these is too acute to be properly guided without reprofiling the knives.
https://www.amazon.com/Taylors-Chantry-Knife-Sharpener-White/dp/B000IXHING/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I use the Spyderco Tri-Angle sharpmaker - https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details/204MF/77 This is a simple use device that is also small enough to remain on your counter (or work bench) and requires little practice to use for consistent results. It DOES SHARPEN - rather than simply "steel" the edge.
HOWEVER - it too has its limitations. The 15° or 20° angle (per side) that it is set up to maintain will not work for 10° angles on Japanes knives and some other thin blades. Also, if your blade is damaged more than just being dull - the standard two stone set could take hours to reprofile the knife edge. I have a set of diamond rods that are more aggressive as starter stones but real bad edges are best to be sent out to someone equipped for reprofiling blades. This is not likely your situation.
For maintaining sharp edges on all your knives the Sharpmaker is very convenient. Initially you might actually be changing the angle on some of your blades using this device but once you have established the 15° on each side it will be easy and fun to never have a dull knife. I find that the 15° is pretty near perfect for nearly all MY cutting needs. I use the 20° only for knives that require a more rugged edge - wood knives for example. Not to overwhelm - but my pocket knives are sharpened with a primary 15° bevel and than I add a 20° micro bevel.
Of course as a woodworker you probably know how to use wet stones and free hand sharpen but the guided systems allow anyone to keep their knife blade edges keen without oils or water and years of practice.
I use my water stones from time to time, but have a few that I've not been able to "get there" like I prefer. I just discovered a local service that generally caters to the restaurant trade, but is now also accepting knives from homeowners at scheduled events. I plan on having them bring these more difficult knives back to spec. My Zwilling knives can be sent in to them for factory re-sharpening...for free...if I need something besides just honing.
I use a Chef's Choice 120 Diamond sharpener. It works well, even when my wife or kids dent or nick the edge. (*%$#!)
I like this style:
http://a.co/hYjgJlk
I use my Shapton water stones and then power hone on a leather wheel.
And if you're looking for a great chef's knife, check out the LiquidDiamond knives. I have one and have given them as gifts to cooking friends. The blade is laminated with a hard steel interior. The edge doesn't roll over, like softer steel does, but it will eventually chip if you use it for chopping. It will stay very sharp for a VERY long time. Here's the knife at Amazon
Mike
My Henckels are 25 years old and I use a ceramic "steel" I got many years ago then I use the standard steel that came with the set. I do this about once a month on the most often used knives. Never would use any kind of grinding device. I have used my diamond stones once in a while.
It depends. (Sorry, but....) At least you narrowed it down to Kitchen knives. (All knives would be like going to the General sub-forum and asking "How do I sharpen?" You'd get everything from swap your carbide inserts from the machine guys to hone on Spanish horse butt leather (under a new moon) from some of the straight edge razor guys. :) Narrowing it to kitchen knives is more like asking in the Neander sub-forum and having the turners chime in with their grinders and the carvers with their slips & strops.) Which knives? The profile & grind vary by region / tradition, as does the target hardness. The quality of materials and craftsmanship also vary and affect how you sharpen (which stones & which grits) most effectively.
Typically, Western knives target a softer (less chippy) working edge and require a greater included angle for a sustainable edge. Japanese knives traditionally are single bevel, but now offer many types of double bevel western-style knives too. These tend to be much harder and are often laminated. Both styles also vary between the high quality well made knives and the mass produced mass market clones, causing a huge overlap and variation in characteristics. Also, many traditional "big names" in the US have expanded from their traditional Western-style lines into hybrid(?) models trying to exploit the emerging market for Japanese (style) knives.
In general, most (successful) kitchen knife sharpening seems to be free hand. (Because of the organic curves of edge, most jigs don't "swoop" correctly and make facets as small regions are sharpened.) The Sharp Maker helps, with two specific bevel angles, but is frowned upon for higher end knives on the theory it stresses the edge with it's (nearly) point contact and inflexible angle control. The high-end grinder sharpeners get mixed reviews. Again they have a fixed angle and while they could in theory grind a well shaped edge and the user could guide along the curved edge, my one experience was very poor. Most common way is to just use stones, at least for honing & most sharpening. (Pros will use belt grinders, or powered stones, for the initial edge setting and any heavy repairs.)
As far as grits, general consensus seems to be kitchen knives don't need much more than a 1K-6K finish, depending on the specific use & blade steel & tempering. (Sushi / sashimi knives being a notable exception, often being taken to 10K & beyond.) Soft (cheap) stainless knives being an extreme example where they are difficult to abrade to sharpen, but don't hold an edge well, where a 220-400 grit finish, maybe with a quick 1K finish/hone, seems the most successful plan of attack.
Sorry, for my rambles. (You want difference of options that make the sharpening threads here look like complete consensus... start searching the knife forums. Better, tell us what you've got to sharpen and to sharpen with and I'm sure we can make suggestions to make it work.)
I don't feel any woodworker should need to send knives out or buy a special knife sharpener. If you have a Tormek or similar power honing system, use that. If you simply use waterstones or oilstones, use those though you do not necessarily need to go to a superfine high grit like you would for polishing a chisel or plane iron. There are those that believe that a kitchen knife should have a little "tooth".
If the technique of hand honing on a flat stone is a challenge, then I highly recommend one of the hand held folding diamond hones from DMT, probably the the red one they call Fine, not the green Extra Fine. It is quite easy to hold the knife point down with a little pressure on a piece of scrap wood, move the hone down the blade at an angle of about 20-25 degrees. Or if it's easier for you, you could hold the hone fixed flat on the bench and move the knife. Either way works. Just a few strokes with a diamond hone is enough, maybe 4-6. Your knife will be razor sharp which is the safest kind of knife to use in the kitchen. This works very well for the little paring knives, boning knives, and thinner filleting knives also.
Using a steel in the kitchen routinely between honings will extend the life of the edge quite a bit. Hope this is helpful.
https://lansky.com/index.php/product...-stone-system/
I have used a Landsky sharpener for over 25 years. Gets the kitchen knives nice and sharp.
I use a combination of a belt grinder with different abrasives and a waterstone.
Regards, Rod.
I use my tormek and Shapton stones. I also the round steel to draw out the edge. I do have one High carbon steel knive that only touches my Shapton stones. It's a Effingham blackjack, made in America.
No Tormek or other method for hollow grinding here. I just use my waterstones on my kitchen knives. Most are Messermeister. A couple are from other brands. The Chicago Cutlery chef’s knife gets very sharp but nicks and chips easily. The Messermeister chef’s knife doesn’t nick easily and is more difficult to sharpen. I take the Chicago Cutlerly knife to a sharpener with a industrial belt. Saves time when I need it every couple of years or so. He gets out the nicks. I sharpen and hone on the stones. I sharpen as finely as I am able to 12,000 grit. If I need a “tooth” on a knife (tomatoes or bread), I use the serrated bread knife.
I steel the knives with each use. My knives are used heavily but are cared for well.
I linked the Spyderco web site as a source for the great overview video of Sal Glesser of Spyderco demonstrating the use of the Sharpmaker. Yeah, I never buy anything from Spyderco at their catalog pricing. Plenty of sources that offer this for in the < $50.00 to $65.00 range. Worth the money in my estimation.
Anyway - watch the video (and other reviews on the famous y-tube. The learning curve to use one of these is very shallow if you have any hand to eye coordination AND, as I wrote, it is a tool that can be readily available (easily portable too) so that you never need to neglect your knives.
The unquestionable downside is the limiting angles. There are videos on how to compensate but that enters another realm of effort that mitigates the ease of use of the basic tool. Many store bought knives are perfunctorily sharpened - at best - and/or one side of the edge is at a different angle than the other. That means they need some serious work to establish a functioning apex that will allow you to consistently sharpen to a fine edge. Therefore a knife introduced to the Sharpmaker may require an extra effort or repeated sharpenings before you achieve the optimum results. This could be the same using any system short of grinding. Not all knives come ready to work OR they have been so neglected that it takes work to establish a great cutting edge. Once the edge is properly "trained" you will easily keep your knife edges tuned up with the Sharpmaker. I use mine 4 or 5 times each week and have found no better "simple" or more versatile solution - Lansky, Wicked Edge, KME, bench stones (natural or synthetic) or powered equipment, included.