Turning from a Christmas tree cut off. Will it work?

Most of the spinning I've done has been table legs, some bowls, knobs, and some tool handles. I have a new baby boy and it's his first Christmas. I told LOML today I wanted a live tree this year but couldn't say why. We usually put a tree up around Thankgiving and I plan to buy a 9 footer. I can only use about 7 feet so as to have room for the topper on the tree. That should give me about 2 feet of trunk off-cut to play with. I plan to turn an ornament and give it to SWMBO on Christmas Eve with a letter explaining we can't keep Grayson's first tree but we can have this ornament made from it forever.I'm no master turner by any stretch but I don't think that will matter to her. I need to get it right before Christmas Eve. If I screw it up I can't get any more stock until after we take down the tree and it would ruin the surprise. My goal is to have it hanging on his first tree and made from his first tree. Last year I made a walnut gun cabinet for our oldest son and he helped me several days all the while thinking we were making it for his grandfather. I love the surprise part of gift giving especially when it's a gift that will mean something with each passing year.Now on to my questions. In researching I've found a little info on using a microwave to dry the wood. Will that work? How dry do I need it to turn it without it cracking as it drys? I've played with green wood before and love the long shavings but never tried to finish anything made green. If I have to turn it green will it warp or crack? Will the finish stick or will it flake off as the piece drys and shrinks? Should I just use BLO or some other oil and Polly it later when it drys?I have an idea of what I want it to look like. A round ball with a long icesicle on bottom and a short one on top but I'm almost sure they will warp if it's too wet. I want to use a clear finish on this piece. I'm thinking shellac or rattle can enamel?With two feet of stock I can try a few different methods before I do the final project.Sorry for the long winded post but I need all the help I can get from you experienced turners. Any advice or am I biting off more than I can chew?

Sorry i can not offer any help, but wanted to say - with the heart you are putting into this, no matter the end result is, it will be great.

Best of luck.


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I'm guessing that the tree you get will either be Pine or Fir. Neither is really ideal for turning but I think Fir is preferred. If I were you, I would immediately cut the log into blanks that are roughly the size of the ornament you want to turn...say 2"x2"x6" or something like that. Be sure to cut around the pith and then seal the blanks with Anchorseal, wax, etc if you don't plan on turning them right about. I have used the microwave method on a few ornaments recently and it did the trick. I turned the pieces to maybe 125% of the size they were going to end up being, nuked them, and then finish turned. The microwave method I used was to heat the piece on defrost or low heat for a minute, let it cold down (5-10 minutes) and repeat four or five times. In my experience (though I haven't turned Fir/Pine into ornaments) spindle pieces tend to dry easily and won't crack much on ya.

After the piece is turned and sanded, I'd give it a few coats of BLO, let that cure, and then go with a Poly finish. And if you're really worried about it moving around and cracking, finish it like a pen with a few good coats of CA glue.

Good luck!

Do not nuke it in your wifes micowave or you will be buying her a new one. You will never get that pine sap smell out of it. Your project will work---it's just going to be sappy and a mess to turn.

Thanks guys, I have an old microwave in my shop for coffee and an occasional pizza Hot Pocket! Ill try a piece in it and see what happens. Keep it coming.

If you nuke a section with the pith included, it will almost certainly crack badly. I have not made an ornament from a christmas tree but would try this method:

* Turn and hollow a ball shaped piece with endgrain orientation (~ 3/16" wall thickness, thinner might be better)
* Drill out the pith so that the ball has an opening on each end
* Dry (may not need microwave as the thin walls will dry in few days anyway)
* Remount (might have to shape a glue block and use hot-glue) and true up openings)
* Turn an icicle to fit opening of one end
* Turn top/lid to fit other opening

Dennis, that method sound great but when it gets past spindle turning a leg or something I'm green, pun intended. Can I turn the ball and lock it in my drill press with a handscrew, take a large Forstner and remove the pith? That way I can skip the hollowing as that's where I usually blow stuff up. If not, that's as good an excuse as any for a new carbide ring tool I've had my eye on. Win Win!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dennis Ford

If you nuke a section with the pith included, it will almost certainly crack badly. I have not made an ornament from a christmas tree but would try this method:

* Turn and hollow a ball shaped piece with endgrain orientation (~ 3/16" wall thickness, thinner might be better)
* Drill out the pith so that the ball has an opening on each end
* Dry (may not need microwave as the thin walls will dry in few days anyway)
* Remount (might have to shape a glue block and use hot-glue) and true up openings)
* Turn an icicle to fit opening of one end
* Turn top/lid to fit other opening

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Shane, I think I would do pretty much what Dennis suggest except that since it is pine/fir and fairly light anyway I would forgo the hollowing especially since you say it is not your forte. I would rough shape the "ball"(length only) then drill out the center/pith with a 3/4" Forstner bit then microwave dry it as noted above. After drying it, if there was any shifting or warping I would re-drill with the next size Forstner to true the holes. Rough turn the hanger top and the icicle bottom leaving a drive tenon as well as a fitted tenon on both pieces then glue all three pieces together using the fitted tenons then turn the whole thing as a spindle using the top or hanger end as the drive end and having the icicle end supported by the tail-stock, removing the tail-stock when you get read to point the icicle. Then turn the top or hanger end down last. This assumes you have a chuck and spigot jaws for holding the hanger end drive tenon.

Edit: If you have a scroll chuck and a mt2 drill chuck you could do the Forstner drilling on the lathe. Just rough turn the blank between centers and put an appropriate size(2" or so) 1/8" long tenon on it then chuck it into the scroll chuck and drill away.

I think you could reasonably dry pine in the microwave. I do 2 1/2 minute bursts on 60% power. Others have their own systems, and it does require a bit of practice.
On a piece that small you could easily turn it thin (if you have the tools and skill) and be done with it.
Beware that most xmas trees are going to have a lot of sap, so kind of a mess to turn, but on the plus side, it's pretty soft wood so it turns easily. Also it will probably soak up a lot of finish, so plan on a few extra coats.

Good luck.

Thanks for the replys so far! I had a few hours on and off this weekend to play with this. If anyone else trys it I STRONGLY recomend hanging some newspaper on the wall behind the lathe and a full face shield. Pine sap is a &@$& to wash out of facial hair! DAMHIKT. So far so good. I've been able to get a rough ball turned and cut some blanks on the outside of the pith at the bandsaw. Again, old BORG blade and plenty of Johnsons on the table. This thing makes a mess!I've been taking pics as I go and I'll post them as soon as I complete the project.