Scraper Plane Use

Greetings to the Creek,
I have read several articles that compare sanding to scraping as it relates to finishing. One article metioned both the use of a scraper plane and also a card scraper. I have and use a card scraper for some finishing, but not all. I therefore am considering the purchase and use of a scraper plane. My thought is that using a scraper will create less dust than sanding.
Thus my question is what is your experience to using a scraper plane and what would you recommend?
Thanks
Victor

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Originally Posted by Victor Stearns

I therefore am considering the purchase and use of a scraper plane. My thought is that using a scraper will create less dust than sanding.

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Generally yes--there will be less dust if the scraper is making shavings. There will still be some dust, but nothing like what you get from just sanding.

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Thus my question is what is your experience to using a scraper plane and what would you recommend?

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I've got the Lee Valley/Veritas scraper plane and it works great. The adjustment on it is especially handy for fine tuning the angle and getting exactly the results I want. It's also been extremely handy to use on highly figured woods where a regular plane might produce tear out, the scraper plane gets the job done. What's also nice about a scraper plane is the plane's body holds the scraper at a constant angle and takes all the heat away from your hands.

There's a bit of a learning curve with a scraping plane. Mostly it's finding a method to get the blade set. I have a small piece of glass that I place the plane on and press down on the blade and then tighten it in. 2-3 turns of the screw to bow the blade and I'm ready to go. I also have the LV model. A second blade is a big helper.

Jim, can you write more about setting up the LV Scraper plane? Thanks.
Ken

I do hone the blade of scraper to 8000 Norton water stone. I try and take very light cuts with my scraper plane. To get my skills up to speed with the scraping plane the nasty scrap pile saw alot of use. Pretty much as said just place the plane on a sheet of glass and press down on the blade only then tighten it in place. Your just trying to get the blade dead flat with the sole of the plane. Turn the bow screw 2-3 turns after it just touches the blade and start scraping. Adjusting the turning knob just like when I'm planing. Keep in mind the more you turn the screw to bow the blade the deeper the furrows your putting into your work piece. I try not to meddle with the blade tipping device once I had set it during practice pieces. Milling up your scraps from the lumber your using will give you plenty of scraps to pratice on. There are 2 woods that appear in most of my work curly maple and cherry.

I use a scrap plane almost exclusively. Out of the planer and right onto the bench to scrape. I have a Stanley 112. One can be had for less than the Lie-Nielsen costs and only a little more than the LV. I think I would rather give up a toe than this plane.

If you want someone else to gush over this thing, check out Patrick's Blood and Gore.