Is just the glue will be enought? It's all the same direction of a grain. Half rabbet maybe? Dovels?
Kind of like in Studley's tool chest. You can see screws on the back panel but front one is clear. And because it's toolchest the connection method he uses must be pretty strong.
I screw from inside the drawer box. I do not glue encase I need to remove the fronts.
Good question. My assumption is you're asking about a large case & not a drawer.
Obviously if you've dovetailed the carcass together you're not going to attach the face frame with nails and probably want to avoid pocket screws. Biscuits would work if you can live with the non-traditional joinery. A tongue on the case edges & groove on the back of the frame might instill more pride in your accomplishment :)
I'm sure you're not looking for the easiest method...
Glue is perfectly fine. You are gluing long grain to long grain so no need to worry about any weakness there.
Chris
On the book cases in my home I have screwed the frame to the box, then removed the screws and replaced them with plugs of the face-frame material. This probably isn't what you're asking, exactly, but since the cases are consistent, they look quite nice. On a couple occasions I've put a tongue around the box and a groove in the frame. Makes for perfect alignment and plenty of glueing surface. If all that's too much trouble or inappropriate, I have to agree with the group: if it's hardwood against hardwood there should be plenty of glueing surface. The real problem is assuring alignment. As few as two dowels will work fine. But unless there's something to prevent it in your frame and box, it can be difficult to keep the frame from squiggling around when you clamp it.
One way to align the frame, assuming he wants it flush to cabinet side, is to simply build the frame slightly oversize and then flush trim it to the case. The human eye wont (not saying it cant) perceive 1/16 variation in stiles and rails. I think the only relevant part of this build is the opening be square.
Chris