Problems running a paddle switch w a TECO L510 VFD

I purchased a Powertec (model 71007) paddle switch to serve as external START/STOP control for a TECO L510 VFD on my 3 phase tablesaw. The TECO controls operate the saw just fine but I can't get the paddle switch to work. I've tried a few different wiring configurations and nothing seems to work.

• I'm running two wires from the switch; one wire into the COM one into the S1 circuit. I only want START/STOP
• The external control parameters have been successfully set to 00-02=1
• The switch, according to a Q&A on Amazon is not magnetic. The Powertec site itself doesn't state whether it is or is not.

I suspect the problem is either the switch is magnetic or the wiring at the switch could be in the wrong spots. I did read an old post on another website while researching my problem that mentioned a jump between the input and output. Tried that without any success.

The diagram for the switch appears to be on its side based on "Load" and "Line" markings on the physical switch which has only added to my confusion. (See photo of physical switch which is held in mounting position)

If you have any suggestions, I'd appreciate it.

Pat

Pat,
I don't own a TECO, but this video does as good a job as any on how to set one up.

You have lots of unknowns here: Is the VFD configured properly? Is the Powertec doing what you think?

If you can start eliminating one variable at a time, I think you will be money ahead. One thing I highly recommend is the presenter's method of testing using the local switch & pot early on. This lets him focus on the VFD setup and getting that right. Then wire in the final end devices and see if they make the VFD operate in the same manner. If not, you know to look at the device(s).

If you don't want to buy the test switch, a simple jumper wire from the COM to S1 does that same thing - at least for testing. Cheap and easy.

No potentiometer in hand, or not planning to use it? Make sure you have some speed command, or it will just hum at you.

I suspect the presenter has a meter. If you have one you can measure continuity across the Powertec terminals and see if they provide the contact open/close that you need. Keep in mind the Powertec switches the line to the load and same for the neutral In>Out. Your COM signal wire would need to connect to the 'Line' side of Powertec; the S1 signal wire would then connect to the 'Load' side; Neutral doesn't enter into this connection.

Thanks Malcolm, Turns out I've watched that video and maybe another one of his- exceptionally well done instructional videos. I just watched it again and it gave me another idea to try.

What is a "fire wire" that is an old apple designation pre usb port days. A three phase motor should have three power wires in and one ground. It looks like you are trying to switch two of the load lines out of the vfd. that will default the vfd or fry it.
There is no neutral in three phase. All three wires are hot. You do not show the vfd in your schematic.
That remote switch should have two wires going to it and maybe a ground lead.
Bill D

http://powertecproducts.com/71007-pa...tch-110-220-v/

Re-reading it sounds like the vfd to motor is solid wires with no switches. That would be correct. Connect two wires one to com and one to s1 on the vfd. Strip the free ends and twist them together to see if the vfd powers up. Untie them and the Vfd should power down. then report.
Bill D

Hey Bill,
I just tried what you suggested and it works! So my settings are correct for an external switch and I've either got a magnetic switch or haven't figured out the correct wiring configuration at the switch itself.

Patrick, I believe that switch you have has a relay inside it. I think if you hack the back case apart, you'll be able to access the "actual" buttons.

use a standard wall light switch or a toggle switch. I do not understand that "firewire"? It looks like a three wire stop/start pushbutton station. You could use one of those push off-twist to turn on switches. get one with a 24 volt led

The paddle switch is rated for both 110 and 220 volts. I doubt there's a relay in it. It's intended to be wired in line with the motor. Sometimes high current AC contacts have problems with low voltage DC but a new switch should work for a long while before it acts up.

I *think* if you connect the fire wire in and fire wire out to the VFD start/stop contacts it'll work. Fire wire for the power line is terminology I've never seen before.

-Tom

Tom, you're right. There are similar looking switches available that have a relay, but it looks like this one doesn't.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bill Dufour

I do not understand that "firewire"?

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It's 120V. The two wires are Neutral and Fire. For 240V you have two Fires. Or Hot(s) if the translator does a better job.

Or are you just trolling?

Disassembled and reassembled the switch last night, maybe just to see how it worked as much as anything. The thing was packed pretty tight and those springs weren't meant to be handled twice. The Start button won't depress now and I have a single loose ball bearing rolling around on my desktop.
I'm going to try ordering another paddle switch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by David L Morse

It's 120V. The two wires are Neutral and Fire. For 240V you have two Fires. Or Hot(s) if the translator does a better job.

Or are you just trolling?

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Thanks for the translation. no trolling intended, My last computer has a firewire port right on the front panel mixed in with two USB ports and a earphone jack. I thought maybe it was a computer control to allow cnc control of a spindle motor.
Bil lD