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How wise is it to build a lumber rack on a cinder block wall?
I will not be storing a great amount of lumber, but there will be a fair amount of weight. I will be using metal beams that extend from floor to sealing and the supports will also be metal. Also should I drill into the block itself or the concrete joints? It's a wall in my basement that is about 55 years old and currently has no cracks at all.
As long as the wood isn't going to be in contact with the wall or be exposed to any water flow...you're good to go. By doing floor to ceiling for your supports, you take care of that situation it sounds like...
I would go along with Jim on that since the floor will be taking alot of the weight. If you haven't had a water problem...that also helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Guy
Years ago I had a cinder block foundation ( basement) and had alot of water problems. Needless to say, part of my criteria for buying a house ( we are currently looking) is a poured basement. But I know of alot of people who have cinder blocks and swear by them.
Gary
Jim,
I agree with the others that it would be safe as long as you have the racks supported on the outer end as well. As far as where to put the anchors in the block, don't put them in the joints. The joint is just a grout/sand mixture and not very strong. I would use some Tapcon brand concrete screws that can be purchased at most any hardware store. All you do is drill a hole with a masonry bit and then screw the bolt into the CMU block. They seem to hold very well. We use a lot of them in the construction industry.
Travis
I have two sets of racks that are attached to cinder block walls (not concrete block). One is a John Sterling Corp rack, the other is Rubbermaid from Lowes. Both are good, but the John Sterling is a little beefier.
The steel supports go all the way to the floor. They are attached to the cinderblock with tapcon screws. The screws do not go into the mortar...but, instead, the block itself.
Also, both systems offer an upper rail hanger that you can attach to the rim joist or 2-by sill plate. The rail hanger can also overlap the top cinderblock with a 2x4 attached with lag screws. Please see the computer pic of how mine is attached below...
-Jeff :)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/shelf.jpg
Thanks everyone, Im going to go for it.
Jeff,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrey Makiel
How far apart are your Tapcon screws? I'm think of doing something similar for my basement walls, and was planning to use a screw every 24", but I don't know if this is overkill or not enough. :rolleyes:
Hi Wilbur, it depends upon the load placed on the tapcon.
Tension specifications (pull out) for the largest Tapcons are 25 to 125 pounds depending upon the type of concrete block used in your house.
Conversly in concrete the specifications are 165 to 290 pounds in Tension.
Shear loads are 90 to 250 in block, 420 pounds in concrete.
If your supports go all the way to the floor, there won't be any shear loading, just tension.
regards, Rod.
Wilbur,
On the first storage rack: The wall supports (or 'standards') are 24" apart. Each support has a hole to accommodate a screw every 12" vertically. Since my supports go all the way to the floor, and they also hang from the top cinderblock/sill plate (as shown in the above pic), I used a tapcon screw on every other hole...or 24" apart vertically.
My second rack, does not go all the way to the floor. It still hangs from the top cinderblock/sill plate like the first rack, so... I used every screw hole (12" apart). But this probably wasn't necessary.
Again, the top hanger rail is the key to maximum support. However, tapcon screws are extremely strong in both shearing force and pullout. I would not hesitate to rely on tapcons alone.
Most heavier duty rack systems offer a hanger rail. See linky: http://johnsterling.com/fmtrackinstall.htm
John Sterling Corp also offers individual hangers. See linky: http://johnsterling.com/fastmounthook.htm
-Jeff :)
Would pressure treated wood be used in a basement or garage for this?