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I was watching this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMnWO49jajI and wandering if its possible to maintain the salmon color of cedar with something like epoxy or Waterlox. Currently I have some very boring metal shelves in my shop and I thought it might be more interesting to have some live edge logs as shelves. I like cedar but would want to preserve the color rather than it turning gray. Is that possible?
you'll need something that is clear and has a UV protection. epoxy and waterlox don't have uv protection, waterlox will also darken it. i personally use a catalyzed urethane that has uv package added. general finishes has a waterborne that has uv package don't remember which product it is though.
I can't speak for cedar retaining its color, but years ago I made a computer desk out of red oak and finished it with a water based polyurethane. It has remained the same color after many years.
David, thanks for the response. In this particular application, the wood would not receive any direct exposure to UV rays. I'm concerned about the oxidation turning the wood gray. If it doesn't have direct UV exposure, would that change your recommendation?
I have some cedar wood in my garage that's pushing 35 years old.
It gets no direct sun & is pretty much the same color as it was the day it was stacked there.
It has nothing on it for any type of protection.
I'd say go for it! Use just about anything you want.
My brother in law made a library and entertainment center of cedar 10 years or so ago, pretty sure all he used was poly, still looks like...... cedar.
I lined my skylites with redwood over 30 years ago, finished with poly still looks like.....faded redwood, no grey all more of a yellowish red, probably the poly itself turning.
The only faded areas are those directly within the cut out of the roof, the rest of the trim is fine. Out side of laying a piece down on the dock, it's doubtful that much more exposure to sun is available.
The poly was nothing more than Minwax off the shelf from the local stores. Probably the higher VOC stuff back then but should still get similar performance now a days.
Thanks Tom. The only downside to using a finish is getting rid of the smell, but I suppose after a while, the smell goes away. Now all I need to do is find the wood :eek:
not really. i would still use a good quality clear finish. there are many choices but i would look for one that doesn't alter the color. i use a catalyzed urethane, but there are several other types of finishes that could be used. you can go with solvent or waterborne for quick drying and do three coats in a day, full cure is typically ~3 days and some can be used 24 hrs later.