Porter Cable 4212 router jig

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10-06-2005, 1:43 PM
Tony Zaffuto

Porter Cable 4212 router jig

Hope you guys on this side don't mind me asking a question (most of the time I'm a hand tool person).

However, I have a need to make a number of boxes (12) and repeat the manufacture again several times (maybe more) in the near future. For strength, I need to use either dovetails or preferably box joints.

So, I'm considering the purchase of a router jig--namely the new Porter Cable #4212 Does anyone have any comments on the ease of use of this jig? I could justify its purchase for the box making.

Final question--what does one do what the cord (power cord??) that seems to be attached to the router-gizmo that is used with the PC 4212 (just asking this in jest).

Thanks guys!

Tony Z.
10-06-2005, 1:51 PM
Andrew Ault

Tony,

The black cord is a starter cord. You need to put your foot on the router and pull on the cord as hard as you can. Of course, first you need to fill your router with fuel.

I hope this helps.

- Andy
10-06-2005, 2:24 PM
Jeff Sudmeier

My router came with a hand crank, so that i could use it when the power is out... It really is a two person job!!

As for the jig, I can't help :(
10-06-2005, 2:39 PM
Don Baer

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Zaffuto

Final question--what does one do what the cord (power cord??) that seems to be attached to the router-gizmo that is used with the PC 4212

Thanks guys!

Tony Z.

Thats not a power cord, it's a lanyard that you tie around you wrist so the router doesn't fall to the floor if it slips out of your hand.
10-06-2005, 2:52 PM
Tony Zaffuto

OK thats what the power cord does. Now how about an opinion of the PC 4212?

Anyhow, you guys are welcome to "neanderthal heaven" anytime you wish!
10-06-2005, 8:18 PM
Allen Bookout

Recently there have been a lot of questions and answers about dovetail jigs on the forum. Just type in PC 4212 in the search box and you will find a lot of information. You might also want to search for Akeda, keller and D4. Many of the other jigs are more expensive but do not have so many limitations and if you have the time they have sales on them occasionally. I do not know if he still has it or not but Charlie Plesums said on one of the post that he "would make someone a good deal" on his PC 4212 if you decide to to that route. Allen
10-07-2005, 9:18 AM
Guy Germaine

If you want to use box joints, why not make your own box joint jig? This one takes about an hour to put together and works great.
http://www.fototime.com/87C422CCC706EFC/standard.jpg
10-07-2005, 9:49 AM
Larry Fox

Tony, I have the 4212 and I bought it for the same reason that you are looking at it - making lots of the joints fairly quickly. I don't have expereince with any of the other jigs mentioned so I can't speak for the realtive performance of the 4212. That said, it does do a nice job of making dovetails, they fit tightly, etc. I was able to follow the clearly written instructions and build a "test" drawer in about 20-minutes. My jig came out of the box needing very little adjustment. I have read comments about the bits being proprietary but I have not had to replace mine yet so I don't know - that aspect was not that important to me as I don't mind having to buy a PC bit. When I was looking for a jig I REALLY wanted a Leigh D4 because of it's versatility but I could just not justify the cost. One thing I will say about the joints produced by the 4212 is that they are BORING, I mean REALLY BORING. By this, I mean that you can't really introduce much creative flair into the joint the way it looks like you can with the D4. This jig MAY be able to do it (I have not completely read the instructions) but it looks like it would take some real fanagling to get it to.

Anyway, feel free to PM me if you have any questions that you think I might be able to answer for you about it.
10-07-2005, 9:56 AM
Jim Becker

Tony, the secret to any of these dovetail jigs, especially for half-blinds common for drawers is to have the bit height set "perfectly". My recommendation is when you get a joint adjusted exactly the way you want it, make a sample joint that you can put away and use as a setup template for the next time you use material of the same thickness for the same joint. As to the PC jigs, they generally have good comments.
10-07-2005, 10:41 AM
Tony Zaffuto

Jim and Larry, and others,

Thanks for the responses. The fact that the machined joints will mean nothing since these are wooden boxes for my manufacturing plant. The boxes will all be painted! What piqued my interest about the 4212 is that you can also do through dovetails and box joints. Now typically, I would hand-cut the through dovetails, but for "knocking" a dozen boxes every month or so is using some of the precious little shop time I have!

For even considering the 4212, I'll be thrown off all the handtool forums I participate in, however, like most participants, I believe most, if not all do use a number of powered machines.

To change direction for a bit: Jim, are you the guy who had the picture displayed recently in Woodworking mag? Nice job if so!

Finally, how hard is it to adapt one of those hand cranks that tension bandsaw blades on the back of the machine, to a router, to turn the router bit to negate the use of the power cord? Failing that, any ideas on how to hook up pedal power?
10-07-2005, 10:44 AM
Jim Becker

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Zaffuto

To change direction for a bit: Jim, are you the guy who had the picture displayed recently in Woodworking mag?

I wish...but no. Different and likely better looking fellow!