Suggestions for replacement bandsaw motor, or should I just buy new saw?
Any suggestions for where I could find a replacement motor for my cheesy, 30-year-old Taiwanese 14 inch bandsaw? Or would it make more sense to just buy a new, better bandsaw?
I started woodworking with power tools but for the last 20 years I've been a 90% hand tool guy; no tablesaw etc. That said, I rely on my bandsaw for re-sawing (even though maximum re-saw depth is around 5") and any large-scale ripping. I am way too old and fat to do those sawing jobs by hand.
I freely confess I know literally nothing about stationary power tools. More specifically, my bandsaw in particular is a total mystery to me. It's by far the most finicky tool in my shop – I spend more time adjusting ball bearing guides, fence alignment etc. than actually sawing. All too often when I attempt to re-saw my carefully dimensioned and precious figured stock for book matched panels etc., ends up being a total waste as the blade dramatically tracks off-line, despite the fact I just realigned my shop built rip fence based on the line the blade tracks when free hand ripping.
For some context on my power tool ineptitude; I wouldn't even consider changing out the 3/4" wide re-saw blade for the narrow curve cutting blade because goodness knows that's pretty much a1/2 day project for me that has a 80% probability of producing a literally nonfunctional tool.
Sorry for my rambling Frustration.back to the problem at hand: after pretty lengthy reselling session, my motor stopped working. When I click the on switch I would hear a hum, but the motor doesn't turn. To be honest I'm not sure if my problem is the on/off switch, the motor or perhaps something else (do bandsaw's have a solenoid?).
If getting a replacement motor is an option my fellow Creekers think I should pursue, I would like to get the most powerful one I can that still runs on 110 current/volts or whatever the hell that is (in other words I don't want to have to rewire the power to get to 220) . I very much appreciate any advice and suggestions about what brand/model motor I should get in where I should look for it.
Alternatively, I would also appreciate opinions/suggestions about whether it makes more sense to just get a new, better bandsaw. If yes, again advice/suggestions about what to get are much appreciated!
I fully recognize that if the power tool world is anything like Neanderthal Haven, my question about "best bandsaw I should look for" is both incredibly naïve and completely subjective based on individual experience. My apologies if my question creates any angina. I'm happy to do the research – read magazines/tool guides etc., but I was hoping for some informed advice that would point me the right direction to save me some time.
Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. I very much appreciate any and all feedback and suggestions.
All the best, Mike
Checking for bad capacitor
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike Allen1010
... my motor stopped working. When I click the on switch I would hear a hum, but the motor doesn't turn. To be honest I'm not sure if my problem is the on/off switch, the motor or perhaps something else (do bandsaw's have a solenoid?).
Mike,
My 18" RIkon bandsaw did the same thing as well as one of my mini lathes. In both cases it was a bad start capacitor. (When a motor capacitor goes you can sometimes smell an unusual but distinctive burning smell - but not always.)
You can easily test to see if the problem is a bad start capacitor by rotating the motor by hand under power.
- Raise the upper guides to expose some of the blade. I raised mine maybe 8 or 10".
- Hold a stick of scrap wood in one hand, maybe a 2x2 square 12" long or so.
- With the lathe off, practice pushing the blade down with the stick so you will know what to expect.
- Turn on the bandsaw power switch.
- Press the stick into the blade teeth near the top and push the blade downward to rotate the wheels and the motor. (Keep fingers clear!!!)
If the capacitor is bad the lathe should immediately start running and work as before. This will hurt nothing as long as you don't leave the motor humming for longer than a few seconds. If the motor does not start this way the problem is probably something other than the capacitor such as a bad motor winding or a sudden problem with the electrical power. (You can test that too.)
I started my Rikon by hand this way and used it for days until I got a new capacitor from Rikon.
Alternatively, you can take the blade off and use a stick or something to give the lower wheel a spin. (Don't try this with the blade on the saw - it's dangerous.) When the mini lathe capacitor gave up the ghost it was in the middle of a turning class for kids. I simply started the lathe with the handwheel every time to finish the class. An interesting thing: the lathe would run either forward or backwards depending on which way it was started. (Who said the Jet mini lathe didn't have a reverse! :))
If a capacitor is bad you can probably get a replacement capacitor locally from a motor or industrial electrical shop. Remove the capacitor and take it with you. It should have numbers on the side they will need. It usually lives in a bulging wart on the side of the motor or in a box fastened to or close to the motor. Turn off the power and remove the screws and disconnect the capacitor wires inside. Make sure the new capacitor is not physically larger than the old or it won't fit into the housing. (If the electrical specs are the same it will still work but you would have to make a new cover somehow.)
All that said, a new bandsaw is nice!
BTW, one of my bandsaws is a 14" made-in-USA Delta. I found out the hard way that a 3/4" blade is way too big for that saw. The blade probably can't even be tensioned properly and the result is a horrible cut, almost impossible to use reliably. If tensioned even close to what that blade needs to cut correctly, it can over stress the saw. In my case, as with others, a tensioning bracket inside the saw bent and had to be replaced. Some people have broken the bracket. I and others found out that a 1/2" 3tpi blade is perfect for that saw for most resawing and cutting woodturning blanks. In fact, that is nearly all I use on my 18" Rikon now and I cut a lot of wood. There have been several threads about larger blades and tensioning on SMC and other forums. Note that the tensioning marks on most bandsaws are notoriously inaccurate. I eventually bought a bandsaw blade tension gauge so I would KNOW what the tension was. Bandsawing is now a joy instead of a frustration.
JKJ