Outdoor dining table top joinery ideas

Planning on building a 4 x 4 table out of cypress. I should have enough lumber in my inventory to do a top that is 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 thick. Planning on the apron for the top to be @ 5" wide with 90 degree butt joints at the corners. Two sides will have a 48" x 5" skirt the other sides will be 38" x 5" skirt with @ 11 slats running parallel to the 38" run with @ 1/4" gap between slats. This works with the lumber I have.

My question is how to join the @11 38" x 3" slats to the 48" sides of the top. I have a domino and can let them in this way. Not sure on movement since it is outdoors. Do I mill a groove in the 48" sides and put a tongue on the 11 38" x 3" slats and put spacers in the groove between the tongue and if I do this do I glue on the tongue of the slats or let them float as well as the spacers?

Open to suggestions, looking for the best way to allow as much wood movement so I don't get cupping etc...

Thanks.

Brian

If the grain directions align you don't have to worry too much about dimension changes. Cross grain joints will be a problem, so you have to make provisions for expansion/contraction. Your long aprons will be a problem. You might be able to attach them with figure 8 clips. You can find figure 8 clips in stainless.

[QUOTE=Lee Schierer;3313633]If the grain directions align you don't have to worry too much about dimension changes. Cross grain joints will be a problem, so you have to make provisions for expansion/contraction. Your long aprons will be a problem. You might be able to attach them with figure 8 clips. You can find figure 8 clips in stainless.[/QUOTE

All the slats will be cross grain. I can do a tongue and groove for those slats inside the frame and not use glue on them, Ok? Not worried about attaching the top to the base, I'll allow for expansion. How would you do the cross grain butt joints on the corners of the top? Thanks Lee. Brian

Your cross grain glue joints are only a few inches long. They should fine. Glue the with water-tesistant glue. I’d use epoxy, but many folks use Titebond II or III.
I’d be a little more concerned about creating ledges or holes where water can pool.

Hello!
Leave space between tongues and in grooves for thermal expansion. Do not glue the tongues completely, let them “float” in the grooves. the tree will be able to expand and contract depending on the weather.
You can also take metal corners or clamps that can be hidden inside the structure for additional strength.
I would take the finish against moisture and UV rays. Drying oil or varnish for exterior use. if you regularly update the finish layer, the table will last longer

My design has evolved. We have an antique piece of marble we bought in upstate NY visiting her parents. My 'current idea' is to incorporate this into the table top. Build a frame with butt joints at the corners and drop this into the center of the frame. @ 7/16" height difference between the marble and the cypress frame pieces I have milled. I'm uncomfortable trying to add a lip to the inside of the frame since it would only be 7/16" high. The width of cypress frame is @ 5-5/16". Marble top is @ 36" square. I think I could cut a rabbit on the inside of the frame to create a lip and then add three cross supports that are attached to the frame with domino tenons. Sit the top on the frame with SS figure 8's and drop the top in. Thinking to do the rabbit after the frame is assembled with a rabbiting bit on a handheld router.

Do you think a 5/8" lip is adequate? This would cost me 5/8" x 2 = 1-1/4" on the size of the table. 45-1/2" finished size.

One side of the table is actually 36-3/16", other sides are smaller, smallest being 36-1/16". I was planning on leaving a 1/8" gap on the largest side from the edge of the marble to the cypress. So 1/4" + 36-3/16" = so opening size to be 36-7/16".

Finish would be "One time chestnut" deck finish (suggested by someone here) to go with the brown marble.

Thanks for input.

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