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I have some stair balustrade and cabinet installations coming up and I think a laser level would make those jobs a lot easier. My requirements are pretty simple, I think, a plumb and a horizontal line; a plumb point would be a nice bonus but not an absolute. Self leveling is another must. Accuracy above all else, with a fine line not some big 1/4" or wider line at 20 ft. So with that in mind, what specific units do you like, and why? Thanks in advance.
John
I've been using a Stanley cross 90 (I think) for about 5 years now. Paid about $100 or so. It's got a horizontal line, vertical, or both. I swear I use it every day. I have mine mounted on a camera tripod, and have a bracket that mounts it to a Fastcap "third hand" pole so I can set it anywhere from floor to ceiling. It gets banged around alot, thrown in the back of the pickup, left out in the cold, etc. and it is still as accurate as the day I bought it.
I have an older version of this Hilti that I have liked using very much. http://www.amazon.com/Hilti-00411283...d_sim_sbs_hi_4 The price is all over the place so shop around as it is on the high side. An excellent tool though. I use it for install work of all sorts and with a Laser Jamb pole I have tilted it for establishing stair lines - railings or stringers etc. The out of level feature gets activated, i.e., the line blinks, but it still allows for determining an accurate mark in a sloped orientation. For regular horizontals, and verticals (separately or combined) it is a perfect compact and accurate tool with easy to read thin lines in a broad band (for working far out of corners). The only deficiency is that it does not generate a direct plum line like others that will give you a point on the floor and on the ceiling directly above. This one will give you a vertical line but only away from the laser itself a few inches or more.
In this category of tool I would suggest spending the money on a good unit... I have this one and it works very well http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW089K-...d_sim_sbs_hi_3. Virtually indestructible and stays accurate with hard use... Off the top of my head I've used it for cabinets, electrical, plumbing, framing, stairs, hanging pictures, laying tile, installing chair rail, and perfectly siding a whole house..
This tool thus far has saved me hundreds of hours of time since I've had it.. It's a three line and cast level and plumb 180 degrees from the unit... I would also take a look at the Bosch http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GLL3-80-...ch+laser+level It's about 200 bucks more and a larger unit but will cast a high quality 360 degree beam.. If that's important to you.. If I need 360 on the Dewalt I just make a mark turn the tripod around line up the mark.. So I haven't missed that capability but it is a good unit if you have that large of budget.. Also the Bosch beam is only slightly better than the Dewalt in outdoor daylight...
Like I said get a good laser and you will use it all the time.. I've had and used a couple of the cheaper ones and their fine for some hobby use but not up to what I have needed..
I have the GLL2-40 and have no complaints. The PLS lasers are a bit costlier, but they are great units.
There are a variety of different lasers for different jobs. The GLL2-40 mentioned above is fine for use up to 30' indoors. I have one that is the same unit except it says Porter Cable on it from the period when they owned RoboToolz before selling it to Bosch. Obviously, it has worked a long time. This unit has one unusual feature that might make you want it. It is one of the few, perhaps only that has the horizontal laser near the bottom of the pendulum so that you can shoot a level line just over an inch over the floor. It is also lockable in case you want a line that is NOT level. Lines are about 120 degree spread left-right, 20 degree down but around 80 up. If you want a 180 degree unit with up/down plumb then this isn't it also if you need more distance.
PLS makes great lasers. Their equivalent is PLS2, which is about the same price. Most people I know buy the PLS180 or PLS4, which are more and even more money. I would look over PLSLaser.com as they have good examples of the functions of each different one they sell. I have one PLS personally and have bought a half dozen for business and have been very happy with them.
Thanks for the replies everyone. Very helpful, and I agree, this is not one to go too cheap on. Still debating if I really need the plumb feature. Do those of you who have it use it often? Or, do those of you who don't have it wish you did?
John
IMO, The plumb beam is almost more important than the level beam... But you do need both if you want the most from your unit.. Don't forget that the Plumb beam also projects to the ceiling from directly above the unit out to the wall in front and all the way back on the floor back to the unit... So say for instance you want to put a line of recessed lighting down a hall way or down the middle of your kitchen.... Just measure out from the wall on both ends of the room and line up the plumb line and mark or drill all the holes where you need them... This also works well for floor tile and wall tile... But the best use is not to fiddle around with a plumb bob and line when you need it.. The Dewalt and the Bosch Gll3 also have a second "plumb beam" which give you a perfect right angle on either the floor or the ceiling where it intersects with the first plumb beam.. Then of course the level beam and main plumb beam give you a + wherever you project it... The uses for this are many as well such as hanging wall cabinets..
Just for clarity I should edit my post - I wrote about the Hilti - "The only deficiency is that it does not generate a direct plum line like others that will give you a point on the floor and on the ceiling directly above. This one will give you a vertical line but only away from the laser itself a few inches or more." The deficiency that I refer to specifically is that it will not create a dot directly above and directly below the laser. Otherwise it does show a plumb line up one wall and along the floor and the ceiling to that plumb line - 3 sides of the square - it can't "see" backwards. Likewise the horizontal/level line reads along 3 right angle surfaces.
I agree with Allen Grenz that the plumb line (not the plumb points) is an essential and very useful feature that I would not be without - very useful in all the situations Allen describes. I'd like to have the plumb points occasionally but not a deal breaker.
I work on old houses sometimes you have to have unlevel feature
infact I have a manual rotary, in other words I have to level it / no auto level
For clarity, I was asking about plumb dots on the floor and ceiling; whether that was a useful addition to a 2-line laser. Sorry for any confusion.
John
John, I should have articulated better in that both plumb lines create a (+) above and (+) below the laser. This essentially eliminates the need for a separate point plumb feature. or a separate plumb point laser... This is why I suggest getting a 3 beam laser like my Dewalt or the Bosch I mentioned... Sam indicates that his particular Hilti does not do this. However, I'm almost positive they now make one that does and as he alludes, Hilti makes very good items.
Thanks for the clarification Allen. I was wondering if that was a benefit of the 3 line lasers as I was looking through some of them last evening. Now I know that it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen Grenz
John
I have the Johnson Level 40-6625 Cross-Line and I have been very happy with it. It is extremely accurate and does a great job.
The only GLL3 model around until recently was the GLL3-80 with the three complete 360 degree planes so I assume that is the one mentioned. It works well if you preferred method mainly works around having the unit in the middle of the room.
Warning, they eat batteries pretty fast. You will need an extra set, possibly two, to make it through a day. Don't know if they are making a lot more power to work with the conical mirror system that they use. Seems way more than triple the rate of a PLS-4.
There is a GLL3-50 now, which is the GLL2-50 with addition of a layout line to one side that goes high enough to make a plumb cross above unit. It also has a plumb point below. The GLL3s have pulse mode like the PLS units so that a rotary laser detector will work with them.