Hi Everyone,
New member, 1st post! How can I rip a 56 degree bevel on the edge of some 8quarter stock? The bevel gauge on my table saw only goes to 45degrees.
Thanks for your help,
Joe Mc
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Hi Everyone,
New member, 1st post! How can I rip a 56 degree bevel on the edge of some 8quarter stock? The bevel gauge on my table saw only goes to 45degrees.
Thanks for your help,
Joe Mc
How long and how much of this you gonna do?
For a lot of them, you can build a tapered sled for the TS....
...freehand it on the bandsaw with a helper offbearing then run it over the jointer for one or two....
...or you can use a hand plane for one shortie.
Make a 45° sled and set your saw at 11°.
Edited to say saw should be set to 79°
On most table saws the bevel adjustment reads "0 degrees" when you cut the wood at 90 degrees. Setting the adjustment to 34 degrees should actually produce a 56 degree bevel.
Yep, Ralph has it--most of it. Mark your intended angle on the wood (just get it close) and set the blade to 90 - 56 = 34 orient the piece correctly to get that angle. This means, of course, that the 8/4 piece will have it's ~2" thickness side on the table top and the width of the piece will ride against the fence. This might present some safety problems for cutting.
If your saw is a right-tilt, you might need to move the fence (or mount a quickie fence) to the other side of the blade. You may also need an auxilliary fence--similar to what is used for cutting rabbets.
Just be careful and thoughful with the set up and you should be fine. You might also use a hand saw to remove most of the waste and clean it up on the table-saw.
Hmmm...Maybe we are looking at it different. Sounds like your saying 56° is 34° off of streight up. I was looking at 56° off of streight up. The reason I am thinking 56° off of streight up is because Joe said "The bevel gauge on my table saw only goes to 45degrees."
Maybe we need a clarification of what a 56° bevel is refering to.