3D Crucifix joining question

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02-28-2011, 12:48 PM
Bob Savage

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3D Crucifix joining question

I'm going to cut this cross using Bubinga and have a question about joining the material. My plan was to cut two pieces with the vertical piece appearing as one piece on the face with a dado (not sure if this is the right term) the thickness of the material on the backside for the horizontal piece to lay into (glued). The Horizontal Piece would have a dado also to accomodate the final thickness of the two pieces being the original material thickness (.82").

I intend on cutting the depth on the horizontal piece deeper than the vertical so that the cut into the vertical piece is only about .20" so it remains thick.

This may not be a clear description of what I'm planning so either way, how would you join this for machining? I have a single plank that's 6.25"x8'x.82". Not that it matters but the final product will be about 26"x15".

Thanks...
02-28-2011, 12:52 PM
Dan Hintz

You'll want to make sure the top piece isn't just a straight cut... you'll want it to follow a feature to help hide the fact that it's two pieces. The "thorn" type piece encircling the center... I would keep that all part of the vertical piece, and this lies on top of the horizontal piece. Notching out the back of the vertical and front of the horizontal piece is exactly what I would do.
02-28-2011, 1:43 PM
Bob Savage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Hintz

You'll want to make sure the top piece isn't just a straight cut... you'll want it to follow a feature to help hide the fact that it's two pieces. The "thorn" type piece encircling the center... I would keep that all part of the vertical piece, and this lies on top of the horizontal piece. Notching out the back of the vertical and front of the horizontal piece is exactly what I would do.

Interesting... any tips on how to do that? Actually, I'm guessing I'll want to create vectors around the left and right side features and pocket the centers using those?

Appreciate the input, Dan!
02-28-2011, 1:47 PM
Dan Hintz

The cheap way is to cut straight down from the edge of those particular features. The more advanced way (longer to create the file, but nicer looking) is to backcut those features so they lay on top of something on the horizontal board. Difficult to describe in text, but imagine it like laying the thorn over an egg... both have shape, but the egg belongs fully to the horizontal piece, and the thorn belongs fully to the vertical piece.
02-28-2011, 2:05 PM
Bob Savage

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Dan,

Here's how the material will look once joined. Any additional thoughts with this in mind?
02-28-2011, 5:51 PM
Andy Birko

OK, total noob here but I think the idea is that you machine first and then join second. Take your 3D file and "cut" it along one of the existing contours into two separate files. You'll now have two files, a "top" file and a "bottom" file. For the bottom file, you'll need to make flats where the top file will sit as well as half of the half lap joint. You'll also need to machine a half pocket on the back of the "top" piece as well as machine the back sides of the lap contours to make room for the bottom piece. Clear as mud?
02-28-2011, 6:10 PM
Bob Savage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy Birko

OK, total noob here but I think the idea is that you machine first and then join second. Take your 3D file and "cut" it along one of the existing contours into two separate files. You'll now have two files, a "top" file and a "bottom" file. For the bottom file, you'll need to make flats where the top file will sit as well as half of the half lap joint. You'll also need to machine a half pocket on the back of the "top" piece as well as machine the back sides of the lap contours to make room for the bottom piece. Clear as mud?

Ouch... I definitely don't want to join after machining. I'll screw that up for sure.
02-28-2011, 6:59 PM
Dan Hintz

Andy has it... that's really the only way I can think of to do it in two pieces. It's up to you to choose between the easy or the hard method I outlined.
02-28-2011, 7:02 PM
Bob Savage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Hintz

Andy has it... that's really the only way I can think of to do it in two pieces. It's up to you to choose between the easy or the hard method I outlined.

Thanks for clarifying, Dan, because I misunderstood what you were saying. Think I'll do a test run with some scrap to see how it comes out.
02-28-2011, 8:36 PM
Andy Birko

One idea I just had - instead of having vertical joint lines, what if you to a 4-way miter with the vertex right in the middle of the intersection? That way you'd join before machining and it might add some visual interest instead of distraction.
03-01-2011, 7:28 AM
Nicholas Bukky

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bob should post this on the vectric site you will get all the help you need.

If it were me I would trim the left in right sides off in aspire using the split the selected component tool and create a vector for the vertical portion and then create a vector for the horizontal section and machien with opposing dados and glue up.

Then do your 3d work but that is just me......

hope this helps
Nick
03-01-2011, 11:10 AM
Bob Savage

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That's a very intersting idea, Andy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nicholas Bukky

bob should post this on the vectric site you will get all the help you need.

If it were me I would trim the left in right sides off in aspire using the split the selected component tool and create a vector for the vertical portion and then create a vector for the horizontal section and machien with opposing dados and glue up.

Then do your 3d work but that is just me......

hope this helps
Nick

Nick,

You're right and for some reason I keep forgetting to post at the Vectric site!

I like your idea. Looks like a compromise between my initial idea and what Dan proposed.

There was no joining requirement since this is about 11"x6" but I ran a test piece last night with a piece of scrap Maple. Looking forward to doing the full size piece!