Hollow auger use help

I've had a hollow auger (from a local shop) and spoke pointer (from hyperkitten Josh) for a few years now and finally am putting them to use. I'm making a couple of the Tage Frid stools.

First step was getting them sharpened up. The auger blade still had it's factory grind. The pointer's blade was not only short but angled so the most difficult sharpening I've faced.

I did a couple of test tenons (1 1/4") on spruce and while the tools cut remarkably well, both tenons ended up a bit crooked. The stock I'm using is slightly rectangular in shape. On the second attempt I squared off the end with a drawknife prior to using the spoke pointer. It turned out very slightly straighter.

Is it just a matter of practice or are there some tricks? The auger is a Millers Falls and doesn't have the guide hole plate like those from Stearns.

Thanks.

The tricky part of using a hollow auger is getting the tenon to be aligned. The spoke pointer is helpful for starting, and for positioning the tenon, but it does not help making it straight.

Using a drawknife to rough out the tenon helps, so you're not cutting a lot more off one side than the other. But it's important to keep the brace precisely aligned. Make sure the top handle is in line with the axis of the brace, and if you have several braces choose the best one for this use.

It can help to clamp the part horizontally in a vise as you cut the tenon. Check the height, and hold the brace top handle against your hip at that height. Looking down at the work makes keeping it aligned in that axis easier. With the top handle of the brace anchored, you can crank to cut the tenon with confidence the brace is aligned properly.

+1 on what Alan posted.

The trick is to keep the brace on axis.

jtk

When I want to keep a bitstock tool on center I will sometimes use a bit extension plus a rod or dowel parallel to the work. The rod runs parallel to the bit extension, which helps keep things lined up.

Darrell

OK thanks for the input. I don't own a bit extension but may try and rig up a reference point next to the chuck or the brace pad (or both).

Jim,

Darrell's tip reminded me of this old post:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...oring-Solution

Something similar to Darrell's method that could also work with hollow auger.

jtk

Tried a simple guide next to the chuck and much improved. I might end up using a floor mounted guide with a hole for the brace shaft at the pad end. I think doing the spoke pointy part square is probably important too.

Thanks again guys. It figures that anything that works on a unicorn's head is bound to work on a chair leg. Everyone knows how hard those unicorn heads are to drill straight into.