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Been out of the shop for awhile. [Cataract surgery] But finally got some shop time in. I love turning hollow forms and vases.
I always use green wood and finish turn in one session. They will dry in less than a week [if turned thin enough] and are ready for finish.
Box Elder is 10"X5" Walnut is App. 8"X 6". Finish is several coats of sprayed on Lacquer.
C&C always appreciated.
Very nice!
I’ve been wanting to get into hollow forms like these - what do you use to hollow? When turned green is there a lot of warping?
tom
Thanks Thomas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80
I use a homemade captured system and use carbide cutters, radius for the initial hollowing then a round one for cleaning up.
All of my hollow forms are end grain usually pith to pith. Warping is usually not a problem unless it is a lidded vessel. Lidded vessels I finish turn but leave the opening a little larger so I can return them to the lathe and true up the opening.
As soon as I finish a hollow form, vase, urn etc I will put it in a paper bag and place it on my basement floor to slow down the drying process a bit. If the wall thickness is 1/4" or so they will dry in about a week and will be ready for finnish.
Thanks for the info. I can’t wait to try one.
Do you use a tenon or recess to hold them (does one way decrease chance of warping/cracking)?
tom
End grain ALWAYS with a tenon.
I don't think it helps prevent warping or cracking. IMO end grain pieces are less prone to warp or crack, they will "move" some but not as much as face grain pieces. Any knot will more than likely crack though.
I also leave the tenon on after I have finish turned them so I can return them to the lathe for sanding and finishing then part them off.
I turned three Walnut end grain vases last week [app. 11X6"] put them in paper bags. Checked them today and they are almost ready to finish sand and not a crack one.
Give it a try, I think you will really enjoy it.
Ha! Right, of course. Thanks again for the info.Quote:
Originally Posted by daryl moses
tom