If you had adequate space and need for a vertical panel saw, which one would you recommend for say in the $2-3K range? No for me, I've been asked for this recommendation by my employer.
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If you had adequate space and need for a vertical panel saw, which one would you recommend for say in the $2-3K range? No for me, I've been asked for this recommendation by my employer.
For $2-$3K your looking at the bottom of the barrel as far as vertical panel saws go. You will get a saw for rough cutting plywood only, not for building cabinets. If you want accuracy and precision then a Holz Her or Striebig
lots of used ones out there.
http://www.machinio.com
https://www.ebay.com/i/372716204484?...iABEgIHj_D_BwE
They had a Powermatic one in the maker space I used to belong to and the folks who used it regularly seemed to think it was a good one.
OTOH- I always had trouble being accurate with it, (though I could do a lot better than HD does with theirs!,) and very much prefer a track saw for my own use. I guess a commercial shop would keep it calibrated better or be cutting to repeated sizes so they'd have a different evaluation.
To the OP, what you will probably land on for that budget is a used Safety Speedcut. A cautionary tale for those looking at used vertical PS's: I have a number of shops who have them, all the way from SSCut to high end Striebig. Invariably, the owners tell me that if the thing gets moved, it's LOTS or work to square back up and sometimes they still need a tech to get it set up right. Just feedback that has been shared with me. Good luck in your search.
Erik
Safety Speed cut H5 cuts 64" crosscut, unlimited rip
add the stop bar with multiple fingers for repeated cuts
pressure bar helps on thin material
dust collection helps but is not perfect on this saw
don't recommend the wheels or stand
I have a H5 bolted to wall in the garage, bought back around 1989. This one has traveled from job to home to job numerous times over the first 10 years. I used to move it by myself, no longer can, just like a lot of other things I no longer can do. Never have found a reason to adjust it, no matter how it got moved( most of the time on a trailer behind sidecar rig. Sometimes in pickup bed.) Have a Milwaukee labeled version of the C4 in the basement, tricked out with all available options(got it used cheap, shopped hard for all options and mainly just because I wanted it) This saw had to be completely adjusted, everything was out of adjustment. Made in the last few years and only used to cut one time based on the total lack of wear, dust etc. Probably because it was so far out of adjustment. Easy to adjust, read the manual, only one procedure in the manual is wrong.
Good luck
ron
I have always thought a panel saw outside in a lean to against the shop wall would make sense.
BILL D.
A vertical panel saw is best located right alongside the vertical plywood storage, so you can just drag the sheet goods into the saw frame for breaking down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dufour
Used to own the Safety Speed Cut and prefer my Festool track saw now because it makes finished cuts with no chipping.
I just built a plywood storage cart with rollers on the bottom to easily slide plywood onto my panel saw. It really works well and saves your back.Quote:
Originally Posted by andy bessette
I agree that these saws are just useful for rough cutting sheet goods, with final dimensioning on your table saw. With higher-end models than mine (I have the SawTrax) this may not be true, but it certainly is for mine.
That being said, I like having one, but wish it took up less space.
I had a Safety Speed from 1970 to 2005 when I was a pro. We made lots of high end office furniture with it. You get splinter free cuts with good blades. Now in my hobby wood shop, I use a vertical panel saw that I made. I get cutting accuracy of 1/64" straight and square just like my old Safety Speed Cut.
The vertical saws are the way to go for 1 person. You can store your sheets on edge and flip thru sheets on edge with less effort. I can slide sheets thru without scratching veneer faces.
One key thing to cut quality on these verticals, shopmade or mass produced, is to use a saw with no wobble in the bearings. Test for wobble by shaking the blade sideways and feel for play. On a good saw the blade will bend a little but no play.
What would be a good blade (tooth count, etc) to put on the saw for my SawTrax? I do get very rough cuts. It's a Makita 7-1/4" saw, that has a 24 tooth blade it comes with, so clearly a rough cut.
It would be very nice to get cleaner (or better yet finish) cuts on boards and not have to finish things with my SawStop or Festool track saw. Is 60 teeth enough? Forrest better than Diablo? Does tooth geometry matter for this?
Freud makes a 60 tooth 7 1/4" blade that’d probably work ok on veneered materials. The trouble is any blade wobble from the Makita circular saw will still lead to chipping and tearing.