I have been thinking about a new router setup. The only cast iron top I've found that seems to fit a Woodpecker/Kreg lift is the Sawstop top here
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/3...r-router-table
I know some others have cast iron (MCLS, Rockler) but then you seem to be stuck with their odd-sized insert. Any others that I'm missing?
If I were selling a cast iron top, you'd better believe I'd design it around MY insert.. and that would be unique.
THere are very few cast iron router table tops available on the market and they are generally designed for the manufacturer's system. There is no "standard" opening anyway. There are a few that have been common over time, both in size and corner radius...in general for router tables. Lifts have been specific and even in non cast iron, fit particular table setups.
I think Peachtree makes the cast iron router top for table saw and router tables that is the 9 1/4 x 11 3/4.
Bob
Sawstop takes 9 ¼ x 11 ¾ plates.
thanks for the thoughts. Looks like Peachtree is only a table extension, from what I see.
There are quite a few cast iron table top out there - looks like SawStop may be the one. Still thinking it over.....
As Jim observed, there is no 'standard'. Please note - you need to take not only the dimensions into account BUT also the radius of the corners. DAMHIKT.
I wouldn't consider 9.75 x 11.75 openings significantly more (or less) "standard" than 8.75 x 11.75 ones.
Jessem makes their Mast-R-Lift-II series (and the improved Incra version of the same lift) in both sizes.
If you already have a lift you want to use, then get a table that fits it; otherwise, pick the best priced/featured table that fits a lift you like. Or vice versa.
-- Andy - Arlington TX
I would.Quote:
I wouldn't consider 9.75 x 11.75 openings significantly more (or less) "standard" than 8.75 x 11.75 ones.
Who else besides Rockler has 8.25 x 11.75 ? :confused:
I bought a cast iron router table from MLCS that didn't have an insert in it. I cut my own hole in it (cast iron is easy to work with). The table was too thick (3/4") so the bits had to be extended about as far out of the router as possible to raise them to the desired height. I went with a woodpecker's 3/8" aluminum router plate without a lift. All that was needed was a 4 1/2" grinder, a 1/2" drill, and hand file.