tapering table legs with a jointer in 4 passes?

I feel "good" about the well documented technique of tapering table legs with two passes on a jointer. Video here (Glenn Huey, 7 minutes) for instance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZTXvsrzbSQ

The thing is I like small feet on my tables. I am looking at taking a leg from 1.50" square at the top down to 0.75" square at the bottom. 3/8 depth of cut to get it done in two passes.

I am looking at the $300 Porter Cable from the home store as entry level for me, with the 6Amp floor standing Rigid as the largest I can fit in my current shop at $800. Legs will be mostly white oak or hickory with some ash here and there.

My concern is if I have the depth of cut set at 3/8 inch I am going to have some vibration in the stock, especially on the third and fourth sides to get tapered.

If I am not overthinking this, where would my stop block go on the first and/or second passes with 3/16 depth of cut to have each side of my legs come out right on the fourth pass?

Thanks

In the video Glenn Huey is making one of the most awkward jointer cuts I have ever seen. A big cut on a little piece with almost no table contact, and he hangs onto it with his fingers or little sticks. If I had an employee do this I would write them up, step one of three to termination. This method is complicated and awkward. Encouraging hobbyists to make cuts like that is just awful.

A much less complicated, safer, and more accurate way to taper a leg is draw a line on it, band saw close to the line, and hand plane to finish. If tapering four sides, block the previously tapered side for bearing surface on the band saw table.

On a table saw, attach the leg to a piece of plywood and run it by the blade. I just did this with 800 louvers for bunch of fan louvers.

I like the band saw better for small jobs. There's no set up, just draw a line and cut it. Hand planing is good.

Draw a line and then bandsaw to the line.

Then a few pass on a jointer to clean it up. Make sure jointer takes very small cuts.

No need to make this more complicated than it needs to be. Relying on jointer to taper something to what you want is like gambling...

Yep bandsaw and belt sander for me.

MK

Can't imagine you can take a 3/8" cut on one of those little jointers, I haven't seen the video, but I typically either:

Cut on the bandsaw to about a 1/16" or less then a pass or two on the jointer, this is the least accurate way but have done it probably a hundred or more times this way - unless your bandsaw cut is close to perfectly straight and the same on all of them you at times need to adjust the jointer cut depth as you go so the tapers all end up "close" to the same.

OR

Cut waste on bandsaw then use a template and flush trim with router bit

OR

(and this is most typ for me today) Cut on saw with jig and one light (1/32" or so cut) on the jointer, for one offs this is the fastest and most reliable for me as the taper ends at the same place at the top of the leg where it transitions to the flat, almost never happens in the other methods but sometimes it doesn't matter and it isn't even noticeable

AND

Sometimes Bandsaw or Saw then cleanup with hand plane, honestly the most enjoyable but more time of course but not too much...

I've used the bandsaw/jointer method a lot but recently started using a simple sled with the thickness sander to clean up the tapers.

I've done this, and it works, but I'd classify this as more of a "stupid jointer trick" than a good technique. The issue, IMHO is what happens when this goes wrong? It's also a very deep cut to make with a jointer, making it more likely that something bad will happen.

If you don't like the suggestions of using a bandsaw, you can make a similar cut on a table saw using a taper jig. It's possible to make such a jig in a few minutes with a couple of dollars worth of material.

DIY version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMF3cT6e_ZI

Store bought:
https://www.rockler.com/taper-straight-line-jig

I tried the jointer method when the video came out a decade ago, using appropriate large blocks to guide the work. It worked well, and was fast, which I believe to have been a major concern for Huey, but not my major concern.

You need to make sure the stop cut ends at precisely half the distance you want tapered.

Despite the fact that it worked well, I have not used the method since, preferring bandsaw and handplane, just handplaning to a line, or using a clamping tablesaw sled.

No, emphatically, no. That deep a cut on the biggest jointer should be reserved for edge jointing. Also, imo, tapering on the jointer is inexact.

I've done this, but I have a 24" jointer that's the better part of 8 feet long. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it on a small (short bed) machine. I also haven't repeated it since trying it once, as honestly, there are better ways. Bandsawing to a line is good, as is a tapering jig on a table saw. I've also had good luck with a Stanley #5, planing to a line. Easy peasy, no loss of fingers. If you're new to jointers, this is not the first process you should attempt.

Off topic, but on topic.... I've worked with the rigid jointer you mention, and it's a passable machine that can realistically be set up to do accurate work. I've looked the porter cable, and it's.... well, it looks like a jointer.

If your budget is $300, hit CL and look for a used 6" delta/walker turner/etc. Just my (unrequested) $0.02.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Will Boulware

I've done this, but I have a 24" jointer that's the better part of 8 feet long. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it on a small (short bed) machine. I also haven't repeated it since trying it once, as honestly, there are better ways. Bandsawing to a line is good, as is a tapering jig on a table saw. I've also had good luck with a Stanley #5, planing to a line. Easy peasy, no loss of fingers. If you're new to jointers, this is not the first process you should attempt.

Off topic, but on topic.... I've worked with the rigid jointer you mention, and it's a passable machine that can realistically be set up to do accurate work. I've looked the porter cable, and it's.... well, it looks like a jointer.

If your budget is $300, hit CL and look for a used 6" delta/walker turner/etc. Just my (unrequested) $0.02.

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Appreciate the input. The way I am wracking up OT lately the Rigid will be in budget within a few weeks, end of this month even. None of the benchtop models really ring my bell. I will almost definitely run 240vac in my next shop space while I can still get to the drywall, in the current shop I am limited to 120. My next lathe and planer and DC and bandsaw will all run on 240, so for now I am looking at putting together the best shop I reasonably can that can run on 120 after shipping to Alaska. If I go with the rigid from team orange they will ship to my local store for free, eventually.

I have tapered four table legs with a #5 Bailey and am moving on. Once I have a square tapered leg taking to octagon by hand is no problem. I have an idea for a tapered leg grasping jig for a jointer that I haven't seen a picture of anyone else making already. My impression is any of the 120 volt jointers are going to do best with depth of cut at 1/8 inch or less, but transfer of blade rotation causing the stock to jiggle over the cutter when I am getting down to 3/4 square at the foot of the leg will probably be an issue on any jointer regardless of make, width, or motor size.

I have not watched the video. I have done tapering on the jointer before, but taking much lighter cuts, probably close to 1/16 or less until the final cleanup cuts which were even lighter. I simply counted my passes on each side and made sure I took equal passes. Worked well and I didn’t feel it was unsafe. I did this when I had first started and had a 6” Delta floor jointer. Now I have a much more substantial machine, but would never attempt taking 3/8” deep cuts for tapering. Lighter cuts take only few more passes, much lower risk and resulting surfaces didn’t need much work to bring to finish quality. Because there is a lot of repetition, one needs to keep paying attention as always for safety.

I am only a hobbyist and not claiming to offer this as the best solution. Just as a method that worked for me..