I notice the hose-end length of garden faucets and washing machine shut-offs is short on most models - about 3 grooves of thread. But some shut-off valves for hoses have a longer length - say 5 or 6 grooves of thread on the end that takes the hose. Is there a reason for this? Are they designed for different types of hoses?
All i got is it was the other way around the washer in the hose wouldn't come tight to make the seal. Maybe someone else could chime in.
They have shortened the hex section so it is too narrow for adult fingers or even a crescent wrench. You have to buy a service wrench to get it tight enough to not leak and not unscrew under vibration. I assume the shortened threads are another reduction in metal costs.
Normal bolt/nut recommendation is the nut should be 1.5 times the female diameter. So (1+1/16) x1.5 is
So it should be 1.59 inches of engagement.
Bill D
These are a bit pricey:
Attachment 507987
> https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...lve?item=AL220
After replacing the low price ones and finding some of them even weld themselves to the hose end these have shown to be very well built.
The handle comes set to point towards the direction of the water. For me this got in the way of changing the various attachments used in my greenhouse and water. It was easy enough to hold it in a vise and flip the handle so it points toward the hose when on.
There are also very cheap ones at Amazon that cost about a buck apiece when you buy a dozen. I would expect the LV model to last longer than a dozen of the cheap ones.
The hole in the ball valve is larger than any of the others I've seen and allows more water to flow.
jtk
Why would you need 2 valves
I like that LV ball valve with WH ends. If I had seen those before I set this system up, I may have gone that way. I was thinking I would have needed WH adapters for metal ball valves.
So far, these are working good, and much easier to operate than the old brass splitters with plastic handles. The ball joints have full size openings and look to be pretty decent quality. I bought them off Amazon.
The old brass one on the tractor sprayer system has been leak free for years, but that is a no pressure use. I sometimes need to use them to prime one of the pumps. The top mounted pump doesn't like to prime sometimes unless I shut the lower valve supplying the lowest mounted pump.
I need multiples from that hydrant for a regular water hose, the sharpening sink, and the pressure washer that stays ready to go with the push of a button. The hydrant is right behind where I hook that door open. I open the hydrant in the morning when I open the shop, and close it when I shut the shop up for the day.
They also make singles in straight, 45, and 90 degree turns. I use a 90 right inside the shop wall to a washing machine hose that goes to the sharpening sink.
Mine are used on hose ends along with a quick connector. The valve at the hose end allows me to adjust the flow. The quick connector allows me to change the device used at the end of the hose. For many it is better than walking back to the faucet to adjust the flow since often the other end of the hose may not be visible. In my current set up in our greenhouse the valve is a field hydrant that is either off or on with no flow adjustment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerome Stanek
jtk
What i ment was why at the spigot end I do use one on one of my hoses at the output end so i can shut it off when I have to move somethingQuote:
Originally Posted by Jim Koepke
Hose bibs are cast brass so the part that the threads are cut into is no bigger than necessary. Other valves are often machined from solid stock, so the threads are longer because the threading dies.
You should always be able to fully tighten there is no taper to the thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Citerone
The LV price is relatively cheep. We use these, Watts, or Viega. That all seam to be about $25-$35 with commercial account
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Apollo-V...Reverse-Handle
I think the reason for the newer short length of threads is the rest is unnecessary to make the seal. Pressure on a washer is all you need. The advantage of the longer threads is that there is more tension that has to be undone to break that seal. So less likely to vibrate loose.
I use this type of shut off at the spigot:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerome Stanek
Attachment 508122
On mine there are also quick connectors for changing hoses. My greenhouse hydrant is set up to handle three hoses.
A person might install a single valve on a farm style hydrant since the flow is either on or off. The valve would then allow one to control the flow. I've done this when using drip irrigation in the past. If the flow is too high, it can blow the drip lines apart.
jtk